Where to Stay in Rome: 5 Great Areas for Your First Trip

Trastevere: Our Favorite Neighborhood in Rome

Trastevere has been at the top of our list of places to stay ever since I, Matt, stayed there on my first trip to Rome 15 years ago (am I getting old? I think I’m getting old). 

We stayed there again on our magical trip to Rome five years ago in a hotel that is a little bit removed from all the action, and it was another point in favor of using Trastevere as a home base. 

It’s everything we want in a neighborhood: charming cobblestone streets, some solid places to eat and drink (including a few top trattorias, like the famous Osteria da Zi Umberto), and it’s walkable to many of Rome’s main attractions, but not right in the middle of it all. 

While it’s not the most convenient neighborhood in Rome (we’d probably say that’s Monti, which is next on this list), it is our favorite. 

You may have guessed that there’s a “but” coming, and it’s the result of the huge year-over-year increases in tourism that Rome has consistently seen over the last five or so years. 

Trastevere is still a place we love, BUT we do think there are now some caveats to staying there that you need to keep in mind (mainly that the specific location within Trastevere matters). 

Trastevere has become the second most popular neighborhood with visitors in Rome, and it shows when you walk the streets between about noon and 10pm, when the narrow cobblestone streets that we found so charming are packed wall-to-wall with tourists (which admittedly does make them significantly less charming). 

On one hand, there’s a really nice energy that comes with people milling about the streets as the sun goes down, but there are certainly some downsides to that if it’s the area you’re staying. 

Trastevere has been a nightlife hub for as long as I can remember, which means it can be loud and boisterous in the center of the neighborhood, and now that noise extends outside of the traditional nightlife hours. 

The key thing to remember is that location within the neighborhood matters here. 

We still recommend staying in Trastevere, but if you value your sleep (or peace and quiet), we’d make sure to pick a place on the outskirts to the north and south rather than right in the middle of it all (we’ll talk about location in the specific places to stay below). 

While you’re in Trastevere, don’t miss: 

• The walk up to Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi: This is one our absolute favorite things to do in Rome. It’s a walk up to the top of the hill back behind Trastevere that starts from the base of the hill, passes a few interesting monuments, and ends at one of our favorite views in Rome. Here’s a map, highly recommend doing this either early in the morning or in the late afternoon. 
  
  
• Traditional Trattorias: Tonnarello (the most touristy of the three, we’d say), La Tavernaccia da Bruno, and Osteria da Zi Umberto are the three that we have saved on our shared Google Map based on our research (no gluten free options, though).
  
  
• Les Vignerons: A nice little wine shop that we stumbled upon. I (Matt) had a conversation in half English, half broken Italian about gluten free beer in the E.U. and why it’s different than in the USA. Then we bought some nice Italian cider to have as part of a picnic. 
  
  
• Forme – Dispensa a Ripa: Great little shop selling meat, cheese, and accoutrements. You can get it in the form of a cheese plate, a sandwich, or to-go (to form the rest of the aforementioned picnic). 
  
  
• Mama Eat: If you need to eat gluten free, we really like this restaurant a few blocks away from the main church in the neighborhood. This is almost always one of my first stops when I’m in Rome. Here’s my full gluten free guide to Rome with more recommendations.
  
  
• Fatamorgana: We did a head-to-head (ish) tasting of the gelato shops with good gluten free precautions a few years ago and this was the clear winner.

Pros and Cons of Staying in Trastevere 

Here are the pros and cons of staying in Trastevere as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in Trastevere

• It’s charming AF. Narrow cobblestone streets with more scooters than cars, lots of people out and about, and plenty of outdoor terraces with hanging string lights for the many restaurants lining the streets. There’s a palpable energy flowing through Trastevere, and we love it. 
  
  
• Plenty of good accommodation options. There are so many good places to stay that we had a hard time narrowing down our bigger list to form the “places to stay” section below (which is why it’s longer than the other ones).  
  
  
• Some great food and drinks. While it is true that, just like other neighborhoods in central Rome, there are some “misses” in Trastevere these days, it is equally true that there are some great places to eat here. We mentioned several above. 
  
  
• It’s generally fairly walkable. While it’s not as close to the main attractions in Rome as, say, the Centro Storico or Monti, you can still walk to the Colosseum and Vatican in about 30 minutes or so. Less to get to Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, our favorite slice of the Centro Storico. 

Cons of Staying in Trastevere

• It can be pricey. Over the past few years, demand has gone up, and prices have followed. It’s no longer the cheap alternative it used to be, but it’s still cheaper than staying in the historic center. 
  
  
• Very much on the beaten path. Gone are the days where the only people in Trastevere that you see are Romans who live there. Lots of tourists, but that also means lots of energy. 
  
  
• Can be loud and boisterous. Since that first visit 15 years ago, this has been one of the nightlife hubs in Rome. It’s particularly noisy around piazzas, like Piazza di Santa Maria (outside the church) and Piazza Trilussa (right across from Ponte Sisto, the bridge across the river). 
  
  
• It’s far from Termini. Termini is the best place to catch the train to and from the airport, the Leonardo Express (a much better option than a taxi because of traffic), and it’s FAR from Trastevere. You’ll have to take a bus or taxi from Termini to get to your accommodations if you stay here. 

The Best Places to Stay in Trastevere

Here are the hotels and guesthouses in Trastevere that stand out to us as particularly nice places to stay. 

Horti 14: A Beautiful Boutique Hotel

I had this gorgeous boutique hotel bookmarked for my next trip to Rome for YEARS before we decided to stay here for the tail end of one of our recent trips to Rome.

My expectations were high – it gets stellar reviews, it looks beautiful, and it’s in one of my favorite parts of the city – and I would say that it lived up to the expectations I had, if not exceeded them. 

It’s on the northern edge of Trastevere, about a 10 minute walk outside of the center of the neighborhood. 

At first, I saw that as a negative, but then I realized that, given the nightlife scene in Trastevere and the fact that we need our sleep or we’re grumpy messes, the quiet location is actually nice. 

It’s a small hotel with just 17 beautifully furnished rooms with modern touches and floor-to-ceiling windows that bring in plenty of natural light.

They also have a terrace on the top floor, where you can enjoy breakfast in the morning or aperitivo in the afternoon. 

We grabbed a bottle of cider – yes, cider – from a beer and wine shop in Trastevere (Les Vignerons) and enjoyed a nice sunset on the rooftop patio. 

Another surprise, at least to us, was the incredible spread for breakfast, which is included in the room rate. I have Celiac Disease, and there were plenty of options for me, but Alysha was the real winner here.

Pastries, fruit, toast and jams, cheese and cold cuts – you name it, they probably have it. Plus, made-to-order coffee. What a nice way to start the day. 

It’s a little more expensive than most of the places we tend to stay, but given the breakfast, the location, and the ambiance, we’d say it’s worth the splurge if you can afford it. 

Tree Charme Trilussa: A nice Guesthouse

This lovely boutique hotel is located in the section of the neighborhood near the river, which is simultaneously an excellent location because it gives you access to the riverside path for walking, and all the buses running along the road along the river. 

At one point, this place was our top recommendation in Trastevere.

However, in the past couple of years, it had dropped off of our list of the best places to stay is the fact that it is on one of the noisiest piazzas in the neighborhood, Piazza Trilussa, where people hang out on the steps well into the early morning hours on Fridays and Saturdays (mostly). 

We periodically check in on places we recommend, and this was one of the top hotels in Rome that readers booked for years, so we checked on it relatively often. 

We started to see reviews mentioning the noise a few years ago, and eventually saw enough reviews that we decided to replace it. 

It’s a perfect example of the dichotomy of Trastevere. We love the hotel, and putting aside the noise of the piazza outside, it would remain one of our top recommendations. 

It’s a beautiful hotel with great amenities (their patio where breakfast is served is nice) and rooms that are both comfortable and elegant, but the influx of tourists has made the negative aspects come to the forefront. 

They also have a couple of apartments that would be a great option if you’re traveling with a bigger group (they have two and three bedroom units). 

If you’re okay with some noise (bring earplugs), this would be a great place to stay. But you definitely need to know what you’re getting into when you book it. 

Numa Trastevere: Spacious Apartments

If you’re looking for a place to stay with a group in Trastevere that doesn’t involve booking a single hotel room with two double beds (cramped) or two separate rooms (pricey), then your options are fairly limited.

Numa’s location in Trastevere is a great option if you want an aparthotel with the benefits of staying in a hotel – a front desk and things like luggage storage – combined with the benefits of a vacation rental like kitchen facilities and more space.

For what it’s worth, we’ve stayed at Numa locations before (in Spain, for example) and have had positive experiences with them.

They have a second location around the corner – Numa Verso – that would also be an excellent choice. Same idea, same value, just a different building.

Nikis Collection Trastevere: A Great Value

This relatively affordable guesthouse is right in the heart of all the action, in the part of the neighborhood where we’ve seen the most nightlife, which might not be for everyone.

However, it is worth noting that we read tons of reviews to see how many people mentioned noise, and found that we actually saw more people remarking on how quiet it is versus the opposite, which was unexpected to us.

Great location, then, especially if it’s not loud at night!

They also have a nice rooftop where you can enjoy breakfast or a glass of wine with a view out over the city.

Monti: The Best Location in Rome

After staying in Monti for a portion of my (Matt again!) last two trips to Rome, I’m starting to come around to the idea that it might actually be the best place to stay in terms of the combination of location (10 minutes on foot to the Colosseum or the Centro Storico) and vibe. 

Monti is a pizza-slice shaped (but a triangular slice, not the rectangles you see in Rome) neighborhood that sits just southwest of Termini and forms a buffer between the Historic Center and the Colosseum and Roman Forum. 

It’s called Monti because it’s built on a hill. Really, multiple hills. Which does mean that you’re likely going to be walking up and down a hill at some point during your day if you stay here. 

The reason we think this is the best location in Rome is the fact that it’s extremely walkable – I’ve stayed here twice in the past couple of years, and I walked everywhere – and it’s a short walk from Termini, which means you don’t have to worry about how you’re going to get from the train station to your hotel. 

Combine that convenience with the fact that the vibe is pretty nice, especially at dusk when the piazzas and outdoor terraces come to life, and you’ve got yourself an excellent home base for exploring Rome. 

So what’s the downside here? 

It’s subjective, but we don’t think Monti has the same charm as you find in Trastevere or the Historic Center, or even Prati (though Prati is a more modern, elegant kind of charm). 

In those neighborhoods, when you walk out your front door in the morning, you’re going to be immediately hit in the face with the fact that you’re in Rome, a city that is thousands of years old. 

Monti just has a little less of that. Which is a tradeoff we’d be willing to make for the excellent location. 

When you’re in Monti, don’t miss the views along Via Panisperna (walking east towards the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore – here on Google Maps) and the views of the Colosseum from the intersection of Via Cavour and Via degli Annibaldi (here on Google Maps). 

We also really like the museum at the site of Trajan’s Forum and the statue of Moses in chains by Michelangelo at the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli (here on Google Maps). 

Pros and Cons of Staying in Monti 

Here are the pros and cons of staying in Monti, as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in Monti

• It’s central and walkable. Staying here means you’ll be able to walk to basically everything you want to see in Rome within 15-20 minutes. For everything else, there are plenty of bus and metro connections along the outside boundaries of the maze of narrow streets. 
  
  
• Plenty of hotels to choose from. This area has plenty of accommodation options at a variety of price points, so whether you’re looking for a cheap guesthouse or a luxury suite, you’ll find it in Monti. 
  
  
• Good public transit connections. Don’t feel like walking? Between being walkable to Termini, having a metro stop at Cavour, and having buses running down Via Nazionale and Via Cavour, you’ll be able to go anywhere you need to go from Monti. 

Cons of Staying in Monti

• It’s not as charming. Like we mentioned, we think the tradeoff you’re making here is the fact that it’s not quite as beautiful and atmospheric as some of the other neighborhoods on this list. Which is fine – you’ll be spending plenty of time immersed in Rome’s beauty – but it is something to consider. 
  
  
• It can be loud at night. Monti definitely has a robust nightlife scene, particularly at the bottom of the hill around Piazza della Madonna dei Monti which feels similar to Trastevere in terms of the rowdiness on a Friday or Saturday night. But once you’re into the narrow streets climbing the hill, it tends to be a little quieter. 
  
  
• It’s hilly. Chances are, if you stay here, you’ll find yourself walking up or down a hill at some point during your trip. If you have mobility restrictions, this might not be the best place to stay. 

The Best Places to Stay in Monti

Here are a few places to stay in Monti that stand out to us (we’ve stayed at the first two, and liked both of them). 

Salotto Monti: Nice Hotel + Quiet Location

This mid-range hotel is on the third floor of a nondescript office (ish) building right on Via Nazionale, across the street from the heart of Monti, so it’s a bit removed from the action, but within a five minutes walk of it. Which is exactly where we like to be (we value our sleep).

From the hotel, you’re a 10-15 minute walk from… almost everything. You can walk to the Colosseum and Roman Forum, Piazza Venezia, Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, and Termini Station. 

And the buses that run down Via Nazionale right in front of the hotel will whisk you off to wherever else you need to go (there’s also a metro stop within a 10 minute walk of the front door). 

The hotel basically takes up most of one floor in the building, and they’ve expanded to include some of the apartments on the lower floors, which is where I stayed.

The best part is probably the rooftop terrace, which overlooks the beautiful Banca d’Italia building across the street, where you can have breakfast in the morning (it does cost extra, though).

I also just hung out on the terrace a couple of times during my trip because it’s a lovely, sunny patio. 

Overall, given the excellent location in the very middle of just about everything you’re going to want to see in Rome, I think this is a great choice.

Condominio Monti: New Hotel + Middle of Monti

I stayed at this relatively new hotel on my most recent trip because, after staying in Monti almost exactly one year prior, I think Monti is an excellent, central location that puts you within walking distance of just about everything in Rome (with the exception of the Vatican, which is a bit far). 

They have a mix of hotel-style rooms that mostly feature a double bed and some variation of seating areas, with rooms ranging from small to spacious, along with single, triple, and quadruple rooms to fit larger groups. 

The most unique part of the hotel is the family rooms, which are bigger rooms with a kitchenette (including a stovetop) and a well-thought out layout to accommodate groups of four. 

Another great aspect is the breakfast, which is served on the terrace on the fifth floor and features a dazzling spread of pastries, fruit, and other breakfast items (it’s served buffet-style). 

They even were nice enough to bring me a basket of gluten free items (from Schar) when I told them I was Celiac and would just be having a banana and espresso (which I happily added nutella and bread to). 

Overall, a good value in a great location in the heart of Monti, though my room on the third floor was plenty quiet and I got a great night of sleep. 

Hotel Hiberia: A Solid Value + Ideal Location 

This boutique hotel is in a really interesting location that is in a sort of no-man’s land between Monti and the historic center. 

It’s on the northwest corner of Monti, right off of Via Nazionale, but it’s just a 10 minute walk to either Piazza Venezia (home of the big white wedding cake building and the excellent Piazza del Campidoglio) and Trevi Fountain, and only slightly further to Piazza Navona and the Colosseum. 

On the one hand, it’s missing the atmosphere and charm that you find deeper into Monti (and also the food and drink options). 

On the other hand, it’s a pretty great location in terms of walkability. 

But what about the hotel itself? Comfortable, but not fancy is how we’d describe the vibe here. 

It’s very traditional and elegant, with lots of warm wood tones and simple beige walls. Which feels very Roman to us. 

Rooms are simple, with different configurations from single beds (for solo travelers), to normal hotel-style rooms, to bigger rooms for groups (triples and quads) with a view, and luxurious suites with a private terrace. 

Sentho Roma: Stylish Stay w/ Garden + Rooftop

Located on the north end of Monti (a few blocks southwest of the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore), which tends to be a bit quieter, this beautiful mid-range hotel is a great option if you want something that checks both the “stylish” and “not stuffy” boxes.

Their whole thing is offering the style and luxury of a boutique hotel mixed with the nice common areas that encourage social moments between travelers. It’s kind of like a boutique hostel, but leveled up a little bit (at least in our opinion). 

They actually call themselves a “luxury hostel,” though the price point puts them into the hotel range of the spectrum, we’d say. 

Based on the amenities, it’s not going to be a fancy, luxurious stay complete with fluffy slippers and bellhops in red coats, but that’s what you might expect if you’re just looking at the decor, which feels very modern and stylish.

Rooms range from hotel-style rooms, with a bed, a bathroom, and maybe a chair or two, to complete apartments with full kitchens and multiple beds. Some have private balconies or patios on the garden. 

They have some nice common areas, including a ground floor garden (where breakfast is served, if you partake) and a rooftop terrace.  

Fifteen Keys Hotel: An Intimate Hotel

With just 15 tastefully designed rooms (hence the name), this charming hotel is a lovely place to base yourself in Monti.  

Unlike the mega hotels that are found just a few blocks away, you’ll get personalized service here, which will make your trip more pleasant by giving you the insider knowledge you can only get from a local that actually cares about your experience in Rome. 

The hotel is located inside a renovated five story building in the heart of the neighborhood. It’s on the northern end of the neighborhood, which is a little quieter and more low key, but still walkable to all the action. 

Rooms are thoughtfully laid out, with everything you’ll need for your trip including a desk (nice to have somewhere to sit other than the bed), USB charging ports, and a kettle for hot water for coffee or tea. 

Breakfast is served in their aptly-named “breakfast room” with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto their internal courtyard, or in the courtyard itself when the weather is cooperating (it will be in the summer!).

They also have complimentary bikes, and you can rent a Vespa (sounds terrifying to us, but you might feel differently). 

The Centro Storico (Piazza Navona): The Best Area for First Timers

When the sun went down on my first day in Rome almost a decade ago (I’m getting old!) I found myself wandering the Centro Storico – Rome’s Historic Center – during blue hour, that glorious period just after sunset where it’s almost dark, but not completely. 

As I followed the sometimes narrow streets in this part of the city, the streetlights started to come on, and the first thing I noticed was that they are designed to look like torches, invoking the feeling that you’re experiencing the Eternal City in the heyday of Ancient Rome. 

A soft golden light washes over the streets of the Centro Storico, transporting you thousands of years into the past. It’s SUPER romantic.

Not in a “let’s kiss under the mistletoe” way, more in the sense that you’ll feel immersed in the rich history and culture that Rome has cultivated over the course of many, many years. 

Until, of course, a drunk tourist stumbles out of a bar on Campo de’ Fiori and ruins your vibe, which is a distinct possibility, unfortunately. 

Still, if you’re looking to be immersed in that Rome feeling as soon as you walk out your front door, then this is the place for you.

However, similar to Trastevere, there’s a caveat here.

This is the epicenter of the impacts of ever-increasing tourism on Rome, and it can absolutely be overwhelming to be here during the middle of the day when it’s packed wall-to-wall with visitors. 

Where you choose to stay within the Centro Storico is very, very important (arguably more important than Trastevere), and will have a huge impact on how your trip feels. 

We like to break up Rome’s historic center into two distinct areas, and we’d really only recommend one of them. 

First is the area on the western end of the historic center, close to the bend in the Tiber River, near Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori.

This is Rome at its best, we think, with narrow streets, and a surprisingly high number of good food and drink spots given the location. 

Second is the area further northeast, near Trevi Fountain and Piazza di Spagna (and the Spanish Steps), which is the busiest part of the historic center and the place where you’re most likely to feel the “Disneyland-ification” of the city. 

As you might imagine, we’d highly recommend the first area, and we’d steer clear of the second. 

The dividing line, in our minds, is Via del Corso, a shopping street that runs roughly north-south through the historic center and separates the more charming western end from the more commercial eastern end. 

We’d STRONGLY recommend staying in that western end, closer to Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, if you want to stay in the Centro Storico. 

We think the Centro Storico is the best area to stay in Rome for first time visitors because of the central location, good selection of hotels (some of Rome’s best hotels are here), and, for lack of a better word, the vibes. 

There’s some great food to be had here, too!

Historic places like Antico Forno Roscioli (for the baked goods and pizza al taglio), Tazza d’Oro (for a classic espresso at the bar experience), Forno Campo de’ Fiori (for pastries), and Supplizio (for supplì) are legitimately really good (based on feedback from family and friends). 

Newer spots like Il Goccetto (a great wine bar) and Barnum (for coffee) are also top notch. 

And we had the best experience at Cacio della Campagna Romana, a tiny cheese shop we stumbled upon with the most friendly cheesemonger in the world. 

Tons of great food, though there are some definite misses too. 

Pros and Cons of Staying in the Centro Storico

Here are the pros and cons of staying in Rome’s historic center as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in the Centro Storico

• As central as it gets. Walkable to everything, staying here is a dream if your plan is to walk everywhere. Which is a good plan, because more walking means more eating. 
  
  
• Charming and historic. The big benefit of staying here is that as soon as you walk out your front door, you’re immediately confronted with the unique historic charm and beauty of Rome. It also makes accessing the historic center at off-peak hours (early in the morning!) that much easier. 
  
  
• Good food and drinks (if you know where to look). There are some veritable gems to be found in the historic center, but you have to know where you’re going (which is why we gave you the list above).
  
  
• Plenty of accommodation options. This area has largely been vacated by Romans and given over to the tourists, so nearly every building is a hotel or guesthouse. There are lots of options, though most of them span the mid-range and luxury end of the spectrum (not a whole lot of budget-friendly options here). 

Cons of Staying in the Centro Storico

• It’s expensive. As you might imagine, there’s a lot of demand here, which means prices are high. Only you can make the call whether the ability to walk out your front door and be immersed in the history and beauty of Rome is worth the premium. 
  
  
• It can be loud & full of people. This part of the city is ground zero of the transformation of certain parts of Rome into something resembling a Disney park. Particularly near Trevi Fountain, the narrow walkways are often packed literally from wall to wall at peak times (the middle of the day).
  
  
• Poor transit options. This very old part of the city is not well-served by the underground metro, and buses often get trapped in the stop and go (mostly stop) traffic on the streets here. It’s often faster to get off the bus and walk than to sit in traffic on a hot, crowded bus. 
  
  
• There’s a lot of mediocre food. While there are some good options here, there are also a lot of pretty mediocre options, especially up near Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Steps) and Trevi Fountain. If there are pictures on the menu and someone outside trying to coax you in, you should probably skip it. 

The Best Places to Stay in the Centro Storico

Here are some of our top recommendations in Rome’s Centro Storico. 

Tree Charme Parliament: Elegant Hotel + Great location

Since they opened their first location in Trastevere (mentioned above), Tree Charme has opened up a few different locations around Rome, including this elegant boutique hotel on the northern end of the Centro Storico. 

It’s a nice location because in addition to being in the heart of the historic center, you’re also near the Tiber, which means it’s a short walk to Castel Sant’Angelo (and a bit further to Piazza San Pietro and the Vatican). 

I’ve stayed in this area before (at Numa Condotti, mentioned above, which is a block away) and think it’s a great location, especially for a first timer. 

It’s a relatively small hotel, with just 23 rooms, and we love the fun wallpaper that adorns each room. Rooms are average sized, with separate seating areas in all of the configurations (even in the smallest versions), which is nice to have. 

If you’re looking for a small, intimate hotel (rather than a big chain) in a great location right in the heart of Rome’s historic center, this would be our pick. 

Numa Condotti: Comfy Apartments + Ideal Location

Right in the middle of all the action, I (Matt here!) stayed at these excellent serviced apartments when I was with my family who was exploring Rome for the first time.

It’s a great location (5-10 minutes to anything in the Centro Storico, 15-20 minutes to the Colosseum), and we wanted a two bedroom apartment because of our bigger group.

They also have a nice rooftop terrace where we spent our afternoons sipping wine and eating cheese and meats we had foraged from around the city.

It was operated by Sonder at the time I stayed there, but has recently been acquired by Numa, another aparthotel brand in Europe (we’ve stayed with them in Spain) that remodeled them and reopened recently.

CitizenM Isola Tiburina: A Good Value Along the River

Look, we LOVE CitizenM hotels, and we have stayed with them all over the world (at the time of writing, in London, Amsterdam, Boston, and Seattle).

Their hotel in a great location in Rome is no different, and offers one of the best values in the entire city.

Their whole thing is the fact that they have super comfortable bedrooms thoughtfully designed so that you get a great night’s sleep, and inviting common areas where you can work, read, or lounge when you’re not sleeping.

The other thing we like is that all the rooms are the same – no trying to decide between “deluxe” and “super perfect” rooms here.

The location in Rome is great – right on the Tiber, across from Trastevere – and will put you a 5-10 minute walk to two of our favorite parts of the city. The best part? It’s surprisingly affordable.

One note – because the rooms are small and the bathrooms are right in the middle of the room, it’s not a great option for people traveling together who aren’t a couple (or who aren’t very close).

Rome As You Feel – Grotta Pinta: Spacious Apartments

We used these homey serviced apartments as a home base for part of a long trip to Rome, and we could not have been happier with the location, amenities, and basically everything else about these apartments. 

The apartments are tucked away in an old building with a slow elevator (classic) on a quiet street within walking distance of the entire Centro Storico, but Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori in particular are literally a few blocks away. 

Around the corner are Fatamorgana, our favorite gelato in Rome (we did a completely unscientific head-to-head taste test of a bunch a few years ago, and Fatamorgana won), and Antico Forno Roscioli, which is basically a must-visit place for foodies in Rome. 

The apartments are surprisingly spacious, and they have a range of layouts that can accommodate between one and six people. 

The kitchen, which is part of the reason we look for apartments when we travel, was perfect, and the view from the windows over the rooftops of Rome was a very pleasant thing to look at as I made my morning coffee. 

If you’re interested in an apartment in the center of Rome, we’d recommend looking at these. 

Prati: A Quieter, More Residential Alternative

After a long walk through Prati on a recent trip to Rome on my way up to the Stadio Olimpico to catch a Roma game, I think I finally understand the charm here. It’s completely different from, say, the Centro Storico or Trastevere, because it feels…modern? 

Which makes sense, because the neighborhood on this side of the Tiber was not developed at the same time as the rest of the central neighborhoods.

Until a couple hundred years ago, it was basically just a field. 

Then, in the 19th Century, the city continued to expand after Rome became the capital of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy, and Prati was born. 

Which explains why it’s built on a grid and the buildings are vaguely Parisian (because in the 1800’s, everyone in Europe wanted to be Paris). 

Today, it’s one of the wealthiest parts of the city, and while it doesn’t have the nightlife scene that you find in Trastevere, it’s a quiet corner of the city’s center where you’ll trade lively piazzas partying until 3am for a good night’s sleep. 

On that day a couple of years ago, I started my walk from Piazza San Pietro and headed north as the skies opened up and it started to absolutely pour. 

Despite the stormy weather, the main thing that I noticed is that, as soon as you got a block or two north of the Vatican, the crowds thinned considerably, and all of a sudden I was hearing almost exclusively Italian (which is certainly not true around the Vatican). 

Prati is a completely different feeling from the other parts of Rome we’ve featured in this guide. 

It’s gridded (modern urban planning is not a thing that exists in most of Rome’s center), features a few multi-lane streets (boulevards, if you will) with plenty of buses, and is lined with three or four story apartment buildings that are almost Parisian in look and feel. 

It’s also reasonably central and, with the notable exception of the four block radius around the Vatican, it feels like you’re in a place where people actually live. 

We’d highly recommend choosing a place to stay that is further east, closer to the Tiber River, which serves two purposes. 

First, it’s further from the Vatican, which means slightly fewer tourists will be around. 

Second, it’s closer to the Centro Storico, which is important because we think you’re ideally within a short walk of the Centro Storico so that you can do a nice morning or evening passeggiata through the neighborhood. 

While you’re in Prati, grab a drink at Fischio, an outdoor kiosk serving cocktails and wine with seating in a little garden, coffee and a pastry to start the day at Love (my favorite coffee shop in Rome!), and if you’re ready for something other than Italian food, a Venezuelan-style arepa at El Maíz.

I also would recommend a stop by one of the most famous spots in the city for pizza al taglio, Bonci, which I have fond memories of visiting on a trip to Rome a decade ago with friends, who LOVED the pizza (though it is considerably more famous and busy these days). 

We also recommend going inside Castel Sant’Angelo, which was built to be a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and has since been used as a castle / fortress by various Popes and, now, is a museum. Excellent views from the rooftop terrace.   

Pros and Cons of Staying in Prati 

Here are the pros and cons of staying in Prati as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in Prati

• Good food and drinks. Because you’re in a neighborhood where people actually live (albeit wealthy people), many of the food and drink options are there to serve locals rather than tourists, which generally means better quality and cheaper prices. 
  
  
• It’s close to the Vatican. While it’s a little less walkable to other monuments in Rome, the Vatican is basically on your doorstep, which makes getting to your early morning visit (our recommendation) will be easier than trekking all the way across the city. 
  
  
• There are multiple metro stops & transit connections. Because it’s modern, you have plenty of options for getting around via public transit. Two metro stops – Ottaviana and Lepanto – serve Prati, which means you have an easy connection to get to and from Termini. 

Cons of Staying in Prati

• It feels markedly less “Roman.” Because it’s more modern than other parts of the city you’ll be spending time in, it lacks that “wow” factor that comes with seeing buildings that are literally thousands of years old. It’s still nice, and arguably more elegant than other parts of Rome, but it lacks that visible history and chaotic energy that makes Rome one of our favorite cities on earth. 
  
  
• It’s less walkable. While the Vatican is right on your doorstep, the rest of the city’s monuments are decidedly not. We’d recommend staying in the eastern end of Prati so that you’re close to a bridge that will get you to the Centro Storico, but you’re going to have to use buses or transit to get to the Colosseum, for example. 
  
  
• There are fewer places to stay to choose from. It’s residential, and there are just fewer hotels and guesthouses to choose from in Prati than in other parts of Rome. 

The Best Places to Stay in Prati

Here is a collection of places to stay in Prati that we think are worth considering. 

NH Collection Roma Centro: Reliable Mid-Range Option

This mid-range hotel is part of NH Collection, a big portfolio of hotels across Europe, so what you’re going to get is a consistent experience that is good, but probably not incredible. 

The reason we think this place is worth considering is mainly the location, which is pretty great. 

It’s a block or so north of Via Cola di Rienzo, the main stretch in this part of Prati, and only a couple of blocks from the Tiber, which means it’s easily walkable to the historic center (it’s a seven minute walk to Piazza del Popolo on the north end of the Centro Storico). 

Rooms are pretty standard hotel rooms when they’re part of a big multinational chain like NH Collection. They’re fine, but they’re not going to be particularly unique or memorable. 

I will say that the rooms are pretty spacious, and some of them have nice views out over the city. 

Mia House Roma: A Charming B&B

This charming bed & breakfast is in the southeast corner of Prati (away from the Vatican), and they have a collection of 10 warm and cozy bedrooms (all with private bathrooms) to use as a home base for exploring Rome. 

The location a few blocks north of Piazza Cavour (and therefore Castel Sant’Angelo) is good, and puts you about 15 minutes from the heart of the historic center. 

It’s a nice, quiet location that still puts you within a short walk of places like the Vatican and historic center, but probably requires a metro or bus journey to get to the Colosseum or Trastevere. 

Rooms are mostly hotel-style, though they do have a larger apartment with a full kitchen and two separate bedrooms. 

Saint Peter’s Keys: A Small + Affordable B&B

Saint Peter’s Keys is a small bed and breakfast on the eastern end of Prati close to the Tiber River. And we do mean small – there are only three rooms here. 

Which is generally a good thing, because it’s correlated (in our experience) with better, more personalized service. 

Rooms are about average in terms of size, and there are a couple of common areas, including a dining room with a communal fridge and toaster. A self-service breakfast is included in the room price, as is coffee. 

Rooms are simple and comfortable, and it’s a great value given the central location in Prati (equidistant between the Vatican and the Centro Storico, roughly). 

It’s also a couple of blocks from a metro station, which connects you to Termini for your arrival and departure.  

Termini / Esquilino: The Best Place to Stay on a Budget

Choosing a place to stay is all about evaluating the pros and cons of a neighborhood, and making a decision based on what’s important to you.

There is probably no other neighborhood in Rome that is more polarizing than the area immediately around Termini station, Rome’s main train station. 

First thing’s first: I don’t think of this area as particularly sketchy or unsafe, which is something I’ve read over and over again and don’t agree with. 

Is it the nicest, most charming neighborhood in the world? Definitely not.

But have we ever felt unsafe (even as a solo traveler, granted I’m a man)? Also no. 

On one hand, it’s not the nicest or most romantic/charming area to explore.

On the other hand, it’s about as central as it gets if you want to be connected both to the main sights in Rome via public transportation, and to any day trips or next destinations on your Italy itinerary. 

Similar to Trastevere, this is another area where specific location matters a lot. 

In this section, we’re including the entire area around Termini, but the main area where you’re going to find the best places to stay is Esquilino, which is on the southern side of the station, adjacent to Monti near Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore. 

We’d avoid the section on the western end along Via Nazionale, which is always bustling, loud, and busy, and isn’t the most pleasant place to stay.  

Generally speaking, we wouldn’t stay on the north side of Termini because it’s further from the main sights (and therefore less walkable) and it’s just not a very charming area. 

However, there are a couple of good hostels in the area, which are particularly good options if you’re on a budget. 

Pros and Cons of Staying near Termini 

Here are the pros and cons of staying near Termini (or in Esquilino) as we see them. 

Pros of Staying near Termini

• It’s convenient. Being within a few minutes of Termini has a few advantages. Mainly, it’s the public transit connections. Every form of transit runs through Termini, including buses, trams, the metro, and trains to the airport (and elsewhere in Italy). 
  
  
• It’s affordable. This is probably the best area to stay on a budget, and there are plenty of options on the lower end of the price spectrum (all four of the hostels we recommend are here). The more upscale options you do find are going to be more affordable than if they were in a different part of the city. 
  
  
• There are plenty of options. There are tons of hotels in this area, so you have a nice mix across a range of budgets. 

Cons of Staying near Termini

• It’s not as charming. The area around the train station tends to be more modern and commercial than other parts of Rome. It’s fine, but it definitely won’t give you that warm and fuzzy feeling that you get in other neighborhoods. 
  
  
• Not as many good places to eat and drink. For the most part, we wouldn’t eat your meals in this part of Rome. One notable exception is the old-school Regoli Pasticceria, a good place for the classic caffe e cornetto breakfast. 
  
  
• It can be loud (due to traffic). There are multiple busy thoroughfares near Termini, which means traffic noise is something to think about (especially along Via Nazionale). It’s not nightlife noise here, it’s traffic noise. 

The Best Places to Stay near Termini

Here’s a collection of places to stay near Termini that stood out to us. 

iQ Hotel Roma: A Great Value + Comfortable Rooms

While I, Matt, have not stayed at this particular hotel in Rome, I have stayed at the iQ Hotels in both Florence and Milan, and they’re a great mid-range option. 

They’re an Italian chain that focuses on comfort and a good night’s sleep first and foremost, which means comfortable beds and rooms get dark and are soundproofed. 

I wouldn’t call this a luxury option. The rooms are streamlined and modern, but the decor doesn’t scream “FANCY”, at least to me. It’s more utilitarian, and I don’t mean that in a bad way. 

In terms of location, the hotel is a couple of blocks southeast of Termini, about a block off of Via Nazionale (again, great bus connections) and equidistant to two different metro stops. 

It’s a good location both in terms of walkability (20-30 minutes to the historic center or Colosseum), but also in terms of transit connections (important for getting to the Vatican, which is a little far to walk). 

In terms of amenities, they have an onsite sauna, a compact gym, and an outdoor jacuzzi. 

Overall, a good option if you want a good night’s sleep and a relatively affordable rate and don’t care about the luxurious touches as much. Plus, you get all the benefits of the location near Termini. 

The Ruby Giulia Hotel: A new Stylish Hotel

This new boutique hotel is in a building that used to be used by the Ministry of the Interior (allegedly the Italian Security Service, according to them), and it leans into the “1970’s spy thriller” vibe with colorful, quirky decor. 

It’s an interesting blend of vintage (the bar and common areas are very “I found this in a thrift store” vibes) and modern (the rooms are basically stark white and very modern feeling). 

From a location perspective, this is about as perfect as it gets in Termini/Esquilino because it is basically on the northern border of Monti, which means it’s closer to just about everything (and there’s a metro stop, Repubblica, a few blocks away that will get you over to the Vatican). 

They have a few different room types that are described with adjectives like “cosy” and “lovely” (rather than the usual boring “superior” and “comfort” language you see at most hotels), though the end result is basically the same; some rooms are compact, some have a little more space to spread out. 

Rooms are soundproofed and designed for a good night’s sleep, and they have an onsite bar and rooftop terrace with nice views out over the city. 

B&B Arco Di Gallieno: B&B in a Great Location

Another great option right in the middle of Esquilino, this charming and eclectic B&B is conveniently located, both for getting to and from the train station, and getting to or from the main sights in Rome (either by metro, bus, or on foot). 

It’s a small place, with just a few rooms available, but that’s part of the charm, we think.

You’ll get personalized service from the staff, and a much more intimate experience than staying at a mega hotel chain.

They have a range of room types and sizes, from small hotel-style rooms to a larger suite with more space (and a spa bath!). 

Some of the rooms have an external private bathroom (which means you don’t have to share, but it’s not inside the room). Rooms have A/C, for those blistering summer days. 

The Bluehostel: A Nice Boutique Hostel

This boutique hostel caught our eye because, well, we LOVE boutique hostels!

They bring together the best parts of both hostels and boutique hotels for a great blend of the social aspects of hostels, with the comfort of hotels.

Rooms are beautiful – they look out over a private courtyard – and they only have private rooms, so if you’re looking for dorms, this isn’t a good option. 

Choose between a standard double, a triple room with three twin beds, or a one bedroom apartment that has more space (sleeps 4 with a sofa bed) and a full kitchen, which the other rooms do not have. 

It’s a great value – hotel quality, hostel prices. It’s just a block away from the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore at the northeastern edge of the neighborhood.

It’s also mere blocks from Termini Station if you’re planning on taking a day trip, or for a convenient arrival and departure.

La Casa di Amy: A Family Owned B&B

This family owned bed and breakfast is a five minute walk from Termini, which puts you in a great location for access to the train station and metro. 

It’s also only 20 minutes on foot to both Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum, which is totally walkable if you’re up for a longer journey. 

It’s in the heart of Esquilino, about two blocks northeast of Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, which marks the beginning of hip and happening Monti (roughly). 

You might be wondering “who is Amy?” Amy is actually a fictional character, and the name comes from the names of the family’s three sons. 

The rooms are clean, affordable, and give you everything you’ll need for a good night’s sleep (including climate control, which is important for those hot summer days!). 

You’ll also get a full continental breakfast to get your day started off on the right foot.

The thing that really stands out here is the helpful and friendly staff, which we know can be the difference between a good stay and a great stay. 

The RomeHello: Nice Hostel + Good Amenities

We stayed at this nice hostel just a short walk west of Stazione Termini on a trip to Rome a few years ago, and it combined all of the comforts of a hotel (comfy private rooms) with the social aspects of a hostel (events calendar, shared kitchen and common areas, etc). 

The entire building is built around an interior courtyard filled with picnic tables (they have a robust events calendar), and there are all the amenities you expect from a hostel like self-serve laundry and a communal kitchen you can use to cook. 

The rooms are split between private rooms (with a double bed, though they have triple and quad options for bigger groups) or dorms (mixed dorms with 4-10 beds, or female dorms with 3 beds). All private rooms have an ensuite bathroom (no shared bathrooms here). 

Overall, we really liked it, it’s well maintained and the facilities are relatively new, and it’s a good location, especially given the bus lines that run down Via Nazionale (which is a block away) and the proximity to Termini. 

Where NOT to Stay in Rome

Before we go, we wanted to take a second to cover the areas in Rome that we would steer clear of because it’s equally useful to narrow down your search for the perfect place to stay. 

First, as we already covered, we’d avoid the slice of the Centro Storico near Piazza di Spagna and Trevi Fountain. 

This is the part of Rome’s historic center where you’re most likely to find restaurants with pictures on the menu and hosts aggressively trying to get you to come eat at their restaurant (this is a good sign that you should NOT eat there). 

That Disney-ification of Rome that we talked about in the introduction? This is, arguably, the epicenter of that phenomenon. 

The area around Trevi Fountain is an absolute zoo between 9am and 10pm, and on our last trip I took my mom and uncle (a first-timer in Rome) there at both 7am and midday to show the contrast. It’s wild. 

The other thing to know is that, generally speaking, do not eat in this area. 

We had one of the most disappointing gluten free pizzas I’ve ever had at a restaurant here that was highly rated, and it was a good reminder that places that close to a major tourist attraction don’t necessarily have to actually be good. 

The second area we wouldn’t recommend is Testaccio.

This is a neighborhood south of the Aventine Hill that we’d definitely recommend visiting, it just doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to stay there (especially if it’s your first time in Rome). 

There’s some elite food options to be had here, and it makes for a nice half day exploration that takes you away from some of the more dense tourist crowds in the historic center. 

Plus, it’s a place where you see laundry hanging from nearly every balcony, which is a good way to know whether Romans actually live there or not. 

The reason we wouldn’t recommend it is the simple fact that it’s pretty far south away from the major tourist attractions (further than Trastevere, even), and there’s a big hill between Testaccio and said attractions.

Plus, there really aren’t many accommodation options, and there are even fewer that we’d actually recommend based on reading reviews and researching them. 

The last place we’d probably avoid is the gridded area on the north side of Termini.

Sure, it’s convenient AF for catching the train (or the Leonardo Express from the airport), but this is one of the least enticing areas of Rome, in our opinion. 

It’s a modern, gridded section of the city immediately north of the train station, and it’s as bland as it gets in Rome. Plus, it’s on the wrong side of Termini, and adds a long walk to get to the main attractions in the city. 

Here’s a map of the area we’re talking about. 

As we already covered, we actually don’t mind the area on the south side of Termini so much. It’s not the most charming, sure, but it’s not as unsafe or dirty as many would have you believe, and it’s actually really convenient, especially for shorter trips. 

Frequently Asked Questions

We get a lot of questions about this guide, and many of them are around the same few themes.

We put together this section in order to help proactively answer those questions. 

Where to Stay as a First Time Visitor in Rome

This entire guide, all 10,000+ words of it, is basically written to answer this question (and the answer is “it depends”). 

However, if we were to boil it down, we’d say that the best areas for first time visitors in Rome are the Centro Storico (specifically the area around Piazza Navona on the southern end) and Monti. 

Both are very central and walkable, have all the historic charm that you could possibly ask for in Rome, and have some great places to eat and drink. 

You can refer to those dedicated sections above for more specifics on the best places to stay in each neighborhood. 

Where to Stay on a Budget

Look, it’s no secret that hotels around the world have gotten significantly more expensive over the past five years or so.

And Rome was already an expensive city to visit (relative to other Italian cities), so that rise in prices means that prices for hotels can feel a little ridiculous. 

We wanted to put in a dedicated section for our approach to finding places to stay on a tight budget because we don’t think travel should be restricted to only people who can afford luxury hotel prices. 

There are a couple of good budget-friendly options in Trastevere, especially if you expand your search just outside the main center of the neighborhood to the south along the river.

Borgo Ripa is a hostel right on the river (but within the main footprint of Trastevere) that has private rooms (with ensuite bathrooms) along with dorms and all the social aspects of hostels like spacious common areas and an onsite bar. 

Lighthouse Suites is another good budget-friendly option that is a 5-10 minute walk south of the main stretch in Trastevere. 

The other way to go is the area around Termini.

It’s definitely not the sexiest part of town (the area around the main train station in a capital city rarely is), but the thing it has going for it is that there are four excellent boutique hostels nearby. 

Boutique hostels combine the social aspects that we like about staying a hostel – nice common areas and a shared kitchen – with the private rooms of a hotel (we don’t do dorms anymore). 

There are four budget-friendly hostels around Termini, and all would make for a nice home base for exploring Rome on a budget. 

We’ve actually stayed at Rome Hello, a nice hostel a five minute walk from Termini towards Monti, and we would recommend it. Quiet (private) room, lovely communal courtyard, and nice facilities in general. 

The one we’d choose today is the Bluehostel, which is actually in a pretty nice area near the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore just outside the border of Monti. Nice, spacious rooms (they even have an apartment in the building) and they get stellar reviews. 

The two other options – the Yellow Square (definitely more of a party vibe here) and the Beehive – are on the north side of Termini, which is fine, but nothing exciting. 

Where to Stay with a Bigger Group or Family

One of the things we wanted to touch on in this guide is what to do if you’re traveling in a group, like a family of four (or more) or a group of friends. 

Having planned multiple family trips over the past few years, we’re intimately familiar with the logistical challenges that come with planning a group trip. 

It’s notoriously difficult to find a place to stay that can accommodate groups traveling to Europe, and often the solution ends up being booking two separate hotel rooms (which gets expensive FAST) or booking a single hotel room with two double beds, which gets cramped equally quickly. 

The first thing to note is that, personally, we would not book an Airbnb in Rome (and we wouldn’t recommend it for you either). 

I, Matt, have talked to three separate groups that I met traveling around Europe in the past two years who have said that they had booked an Airbnb only to have it canceled while they were in the air on the way across the Atlantic. 

Imagine the stress! 

The reason behind that is that countries in Europe have started regulating vacation rentals more heavily (hey, what a concept!), and the result is tighter availability and the removal of illegal listings from the market (which we view as a good thing). 

However, we totally understand the desire for more space to accommodate a group, and we want to introduce you to the concept of aparthotels. 

These are a type of accommodation we don’t see in the U.S. that often, but we find all over Europe. 

Basically, it’s a hotel where the rooms are apartments, so you get all the convenience and amenities of a hotel, but the rooms usually have a kitchen and options for various numbers of bedrooms. 

They give you the perks, like luggage storage and flexible check-in, along with the comfort of having more space and feeling like you’re more immersed in the daily life of the place you’re visiting. 

There are a bunch of aparthotel options in Rome if that’s what you’re looking for, and we’d look at these first: 

• Numa Condotti: A nice aparthotel that we’ve stayed at in the historic center (on the northern end, close to the river) with bigger units (we needed two separate bedrooms) and a nice rooftop terrace. 
  
  
• Numa Trastevere: A nice aparthotel on the southern outskirts of Trastevere, which means a quieter location. They have units ranging from studios to two bedrooms. 
  
  
• Bob W San Lorenzo: Another aparthotel chain with locations across Europe, this Bob W location is in San Lorenzo, which is northeast of Termini and is a little student-focused pocket with some good places to eat and drink, but a longer commute to the main monuments. It’s one of the few places where you’ll find two and three bedroom units, and the neighborhood itself is nice, quiet, and charming. 
  
  
• Incentrum: A very nice set of serviced apartments on the northern edge of the historic center, near Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo. Units from studios up to three bedrooms. 

Is Trastevere a Good Place to Stay in Rome?

Yes, we think Trastevere is a good place to stay, but the answer is a bit more complicated than it was five or more years ago. 

Overall, we still love Trastevere. It has the cobblestone streets, ivy-laden buildings, and charming trattorias that made us fall in love with Rome over the course of our many, many visits.

It’s one of the places where, when you walk out of your front door, you’re immediately confronted with Rome’s history and beauty. 

However, as it has become more popular with tourists, the types of places – stores, bars, restaurants – that populate Trastevere have shifted towards serving tourists rather than locals, which is a slow death spiral that has hollowed out neighborhoods around the world when they’ve gotten a little too popular (including, arguably, Rome’s historic center). 

The main tradeoffs to think about are the fact that it’s busy and popular, and therefore pretty loud and boisterous (especially at night), and the fact that it’s not particularly central to most of Rome’s main attractions, which means longer journeys to get around. 

We still think the tradeoffs are worth it, but you should be careful about which specific area in Trastevere you choose to stay in to minimize the noise and crowding and maximize the charm factor. 

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