4 Days in Rome: An Amazing Itinerary (for First Timers)

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Our biggest tip for planning a trip to Rome is to not do more than one major sight (e.g. the Colosseum, Vatican, or Borghese Gallery) on the same day.

Each of those places is going to take a lot of energy, and by the time you’re getting ready to go to the second one, you’re going to be exhausted and the experience isn’t going to be nearly as enjoyable. 

If you have two or three days in Rome, it’s still doable. Below the main itinerary, we have our thoughts on how to spend one, two, and three days in Rome to help you plan a trip with less time. 

Learn Some Basic Words and Phrases in Italian

It’s often easy to forget that English isn’t people’s first language, because many Italians (especially those working in tourism) speak really good English, but you’ll have better interactions if you greet people in Italian, and use a few key Italian phrases over the course of  your interactions. 

I’ve been (sort of) learning Italian, and being able to do basic interactions like ordering coffee or dinner in Italian has made a huge difference. 

The Colosseum and Roman Forum

For all intents and purposes, these two sights should be grouped together. They represent similar periods in Roman history, they’re adjacent to each other, and they’re visited on the same ticket or tour. 

Before or after your tour, there’s an excellent view of the Roman Forum from OUTSIDE the boundaries located here. 

It’s well worth heading up and over the hill to Piazza del Campidoglio (with a replica of a famous Michelangelo statue in the middle) and Piazza Venezia, which houses the Altar of the Fatherland dedicated to Italy’s first king after unification, Vittorio Emanuele II. 

The Colosseum (or the Flavian Amphitheater)

The Colosseum is the massive Roman amphitheater, the most well-known (and biggest) in the world.

The structure was commissioned by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E. after the area was used as a private palace for infamous (and unpopular) Emperor Nero. It was kind of a gesture to the people that the ruling class hadn’t forgotten them. 

Unfortunately, Vespasian didn’t live to see it completed. Instead, it was completed under his son Titus in 80 C.E., taking just eight years to build (which is insane when you consider that some churches take several centuries). 

It’s most likely that the building, after some expansions and renovations over the years, could fit somewhere between 40,000 and 50,000 spectators, though you’ll still hear numbers as high as 80,000 thrown around which most historians agree is a little aggressive. 

Another misconception about the Colosseum that is mostly perpetuated by media like movies and TV shows is that the gladiatorial games were brutal, bloody, and murderous.

That’s true to an extent, but our guide reminded us that, at the end of the day, the gladiators were highly skilled professionals AND they were the property of rich people who most definitely didn’t want their assets killed. 

It’s more likely that the gladiatorial battles were similar to modern-day boxing matches than the bloodbaths you’ve seen Russell Crowe participate in. 

They’ve reconstructed part of the wooden floor of the arena, and below that you can see the intricate series of cages, tunnels, and staging areas where gladiators and exotic animals were kept before being brought up onto the stage using an innovative elevator system. 

It’s massive, and it’s an incredible feat of human ingenuity. I, Matt, have done the Colosseum four different times now, and each time my jaw hits the floor as you emerge onto the platform around the edge of the arena. 

The Roman Forum

The Roman Forum – known in Italian as the Foro Romano – is a little different than the Colosseum. Unlike the Colosseum, which stands tall and intact (having been rebuilt and renovated over the years), the Roman Forum is mostly ruins. 

Which makes it hard to understand what you’re looking at without a guide to help you decipher the difference between the Senate building and the Temple of the Vestal Virgins.

Palatine Hill, one of the seven hills of Rome, is just to the southwest and is accessible from within the complex (you’ll find one of the best views in Rome from the viewpoint at the top). 

The majority of the important buildings in Ancient Rome were within walking distance of this historic meeting place. 

Contrary to popular belief, while there is a temple dedicated to Julius Caesar here, he was actually not killed in the Forum, but over near Largo di Torre Argentina.

He busted all sorts of myths that we had fully believed to be true, and was able to weave together a cohesive story throughout the three hour tour that had us engaged the entire time. 

And keep in mind, we had both experienced it already more than once before!

We highly, highly recommend booking a guided tour for the Colosseum and Forum. If you only have time for one guided tour in Rome, this should be the one. 

Visiting the Colosseum and Forum Independently

You, of course, can visit independently. We would suggest purchasing the audio guide, or downloading the Rick Steves audio guide ahead of your visit.

It’s not going to be as interactive or interesting as a tour, but it will give you some of the context around what you’re looking at. 

Buy your tickets in advance, and as far in advance as possible if you’re coming to Rome in the summer.

For more information and to buy tickets, go to the official website (we’re not giving you exact hours and ticket prices because they do change, and it’s better to just go to the official site to check them in real time). 

You’re going to need at least three to four hours to do them both justice.

Even in late September, exploring the Roman Forum was HOT. In the summertime, it will be borderline unbearable with very limited opportunities for shade and a brief respite from the sun.

Bring plenty of water and sunscreen, you will need both. 

Afterwards, take a well-earned break and grab lunch, head back to the hotel and relax, and get ready for a late afternoon walk up to one of the best viewpoints in Rome. 

The Orange Garden and Keyhole

The view from the Orange Garden back towards Rome’s center

Post-nap, it’s time to get back out there and explore a bit more. This time, head to the Orange Garden (here on Google Maps), which is perched on a hill with great views of Rome and the Vatican. 

Another worthwhile stop just a few hundred feet away is the keyhole (here on Google Maps), which is a now-Insta-famous spot where you can look through, well, a keyhole, that has the dome of the Vatican perfectly framed.

I say it’s Insta-famous, because if you’re here in peak season in the afternoon, you’re likely going to have to wait in line for the privilege of looking through said keyhole. 

An alternative would be to do this part of the itinerary in the morning before the Colosseum, which is a vastly different experience.

Instead of kids and tourists coming up to watch the sunset, the area is packed full of locals walking their dogs. And there was not a single person waiting to look through the keyhole, just us!

Your First Aperitivo

Aperitivo is a period during the late afternoon/early evening, between getting off work and dinner time (which is later than you’d expect in Rome) where people go out for drinks. And those drinks are served with a selection of small bites, like bruschetta, olives, and things like that. 

If you’re American or Canadian, it’s a little like happy hour, except the food is complimentary with your drinks.

While the days of full-on aperitivo buffets are behind us, at least in most of Rome, the idea behind aperitivo is still one of our favorite parts about spending time in Rome. 

During aperitivo, our drink of choice (and what you’ll see many people drinking) is the Aperol Spritz.

It’s a light cocktail – perfect for a summer day – that is made with sparkling water, sparkling wine (all of the bubbles, please!) and Aperol, an orange-colored bitter aperitif. 

The spritz is usually 4-5 Euros (definitely don’t pay more than 6 Euros!), and is the quintessential aperitivo beverage to us.

I made the mistake of ordering a Campari Spritz instead, just to try it, and won’t be doing it again. It was fine, totally drinkable if you’re into bitter liqueurs like Campari, but it wasn’t nearly as refreshing. 

Anyway, after the orange garden, you’re in the perfect position to head to our favorite aperitivo spot in Rome – Zerosettantacinque – which is near where the Circus Maximus (a huge chariot racing track) used to be, which fits perfectly with the Ancient Rome theme of today.

The location is great, the drinks are good, and they bring you a little selection of bites to go with your drinks (and have a bigger menu of food, if you’re still hungry). 

Dinner and Drinks in Monti

After a spritz or two, head into nearby Monti, the hip neighborhood on the northern side of the Colosseum, for dinner.

I say hip because there are multiple record shops and vintage clothing stores on one of the streets, which is a clear sign that the kids hang out there (by “the kids” I’m referring to 20-somethings wearing bell bottom light wash jeans and those glasses with thin wire frames and big lenses that look like Harry Potter’s glasses). 

We walked through here a couple of times at various times of day. After dark is, by far, the most lively time to be here. 

Grab dinner at either Cimarra Pizza and Cocktails or Al Vino Al Vino, and indulge in your first gelato of the trip at Fatamorgana, one of our favorite gelato shops in Rome with rotating seasonal flavors and fresh ingredients. 

P.S.: We loved this piece on how to spot “good” gelato. Spoiler: the gelato with super bright colors that is spilling out of the tubs outside the shop near Trevi Fountain is, unsurprisingly, not the best you can find. 

Day 2: The Vatican, St. Peter’s Basilica, & Castel Sant’Angelo

On your second day, tackle the second world-famous attraction in Rome, the Vatican. Home to the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican is fascinating even if you’re not really religious.

It’s an impressive collection of art, with the crown jewel being the Sistine Chapel. 

A word on fashion for this day, not because we want to make sure you’re as stylish as possible, but because the Vatican is a religious site. That means your shoulders and knees should be covered up, even if it’s blistering hot in the summer.

Otherwise you may not be able to enter certain parts of the complex, namely St. Peter’s Basilica. 

But First, Coffee

Before your trip to the Vatican, head to Pergamino Caffè for some of the best coffee in Rome.

I’m a coffee lover, particularly if I get to choose which coffee is used to make my coffee, and this is the perfect place for that.

They have coffee roasters from all over Europe, heavily focused on Italian roasters, and will prepare you a cup of great coffee, whether you’re into lattes or filter coffee. 

It’s on the south side of the Vatican, just around the corner from the main entrance to the Museums, which makes it a perfect spot pre-Vatican. 

Another great option if you’re willing to walk a little bit further is LOVE Specialty Coffee and Croissants, which was my favorite discovery on my latest trip to Rome.

Their coffee – which uses some of my favorite roasters from around Europe – was excellent. 

They also have delicious looking pastries, though they’re definitely not gluten free so I had to pass (and the barista couldn’t understand why I would possibly decline a croissant until I told her “sono celiaco”). 

The Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica

Arguably the most famous museum in the world makes its home in the collections of the Vatican. They show a whopping 20,000 pieces of art and culminate with the legendary Sistine Chapel, where the ceiling frescos bear the work of Michelangelo.

One contradiction that always pops up in the back of my mind when visiting huge, ornate churches has to do with the role of the church. 

Why, you might ask, does an organization that preaches the Bible, which unequivocally condemns rich people who do not give away their wealth, have such an ornate and over-the-top display of wealth?

Great question to ask the Pope, if you run into him (or her, in case you’re reading this at a time when we’ve gotten a female pope).

As a religious site, I have questions about the Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica. If you put those questions aside for a second and just consider it as a collection of art, it’s a pretty incredible display featuring a who’s who of Italian art history. 

There are essentially two pieces – the Vatican Museums (which include the Sistine Chapel) and St. Peter’s Basilica.

You should visit both, and you should try to be either on the first or last entry slot of the day (obviously, the way we have it written would have you here for the first one of the day). 

I’ve done the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s three separate times now, and each time has been slightly different. The first time, we did it independently. The second time, it was independently with an audio guide. 

One of the most important lessons we’ve learned over the past few years of traveling is to always opt for a guided tour when it comes to big art museums with sprawling collections, which certainly means the Vatican Museums. 

I did the Pristine Sistine tour with Walks of Italy on my recent trip, and I enjoyed it (though I’d still say a tour of the Colosseum + Forum should take precedent, if you can only do one). 

The guide will give you all of the context and history you need to actually understand what you’re looking at, and will help you figure out what to see and what to skip in order to help tell that story. 

We’re not huge art buffs, and we have often had the experience of walking into a museum, wandering around for a bit, reading some signs, and walking out having learned almost nothing and wondering if we were the problem. 

After a perspective-changing tour of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence a few years ago (that came on the heels of a similar tour experience at the Colosseum with Walks of Italy), we realized that we can be art people, we just need the added context and story behind the art to help us understand what exactly we’re looking at. 

Now, we generally opt to visit one museum per city, and we go deep with a guided tour to get the most out of our visit. 

On my last trip to Rome, I decided to splurge and do the “Pristine Sistine” tour with my favorite tour company in Italy, Walks of Italy (this was my fifth tour with them, not including the other tours I’ve done outside of Italy with their broader company, Walks). 

Walks of Italy’s expert guides are among the best in the business, at least in my experience. The worst Walks guide I’ve had was bang-on average in the grand scheme of guided tours I’ve taken in my lifetime, which is a pretty good batting average across 5-6 different tours. 

Several – namely Dario from our memorable Colosseum Tour – are among the best guides we’ve ever had the privilege of doing a tour with.

The second reason we think it’s worth it is the time you’ll save by entering first thing in the morning, and then skipping the security line for St. Peter’s Basilica via the guided cut-through from the Sistine Chapel to the Basilica that is only available to guided tours. 

Judging by the 1-2 hour line to enter St. Peter’s Basilica that I encountered upon exiting around 1pm, I would say that the ability to take that cut through that saves you from re-waiting in that security line is almost worth the upcharge on its own (given your limited time in Rome and the fact that it’s hot and exposed). 

Combined with the skip-the-line entry – the first of the day – we think you’ll find that there’s not really a more efficient way to combine these two major sights in Rome. 

The other scenario where the tour is absolutely worth it is if the tickets for the Vatican Museums are sold out for your dates, or if the early morning entry tickets are sold out for your dates. 

One of the scenarios we hear most often is something along the lines of “help! We’re visiting next week and tickets are sold out, what should we do?!”

In that scenario, your options are fairly limited, and a guided tour is basically the only option you have if you want to see the Vatican Museums. 

A better, less common question is what to do if the only tickets available are for an entry time of something like 12pm. 

The Vatican Museums are absolutely PACKED from 10am to 4pm (roughly), and it will be a much less pleasant experience. 

Putting my cards on the table here, given the choice between paying a premium for this tour and visiting on my own starting at 12pm, I’d do the tour ten times out of ten (especially considering the reasons we already covered above). 

Visiting The Vatican Museums & St. Peter’s Basilica Independently

If the tour isn’t in the budget (or you would prefer to go at your own pace), I have some thoughts about how to maximize your time when seeing the two main attractions at the Vatican. 

First of all, you’ll need to buy entry tickets for the Vatican Museums, while St. Peter’s Basilica is free to enter. For both, you’ll have to wait in the (sometimes long) security lines. 

Buy tickets for the Vatican Museums here – toggle the site to English with the language selector in the top right.

You should book your tickets as soon as possible so that you have access to the 8am and 8:30am entry slots. 

They go on sale 60 days in advance, and sell out within an hour if it’s peak season. You want those early entry times!

For the best experience, we’d recommend either picking the tickets that include an audio guide, or, even better, book a guided tour that includes a live guide. 

If they are sold out, the first thing I would do before booking a tour is look at online resellers, who generally have more availability than going direct (though not unlimited availability).

If the first entry of the day is sold out, I would also consider the 4pm entry slot, which is another relatively quiet time to be in the museums (especially midweek). 

If they are sold out, the first thing I would do before booking a tour is look at online resellers, who generally have more availability than going direct (though not unlimited availability).

Here is the Get Your Guide page where you can check if they have availability for your dates. 

Second of all, I would consider doing the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica on different days (or, alternatively, doing St. Peter’s in the morning and the Vatican Museums in the later afternoon). 

The reason is that, by the time you’re done with the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, it will be around noon (maybe even later, depending on your pace). Which means you’re going to be waiting in the security line 

I would recommend, if you have the time, getting to St. Peter’s Basilica at opening (currently 7:30am) on a different day for a much more relaxing experience, and for the fact that the light will be better if you choose to climb the Dome (plus fewer people in the narrow passageways). 

If that sounds interesting to you, we’d just move St. Peter’s to first thing in the morning of the fourth day on this itinerary.

Lunch in Prati

After the Vatican and St Peter’s Basilica, head into Prati, the neighborhood immediately adjacent to the Vatican, for lunch. 

This is the part of Rome that Alysha called home for six months in college (albeit a more residential part of the neighborhood a ways away from the Vatican), and it’s a little bit more upscale and family oriented than other parts of the city center. 

However, despite being so close to a tourist attraction – which is usually a bad sign in terms of food quality and value – there are some truly outstanding places to eat here. 

If you’re looking for the best pizza-by-the-slice in Rome, go to Bonci Pizzarium, a tiny hole-in-the-wall where you’ll find a daily selection of rectangular pizzas served in rectangular slices, which is different from what you might get in the US. Pizza toppings rotate all the time.

I went here with friends years ago, and unfortunately the whole “gluten free” thing is a major problem in this case, so we didn’t go back this last time. 

If you’re sick of Italian food (really? On day two?), we LOVED El Maiz, a Venezuelan restaurant serving arepas, cachapas, and tostones.

We love Venezuelan arepas, and were pleasantly surprised to find them in Rome. The tostones – fried green plantains with toppings – here are spectacular, and were among the best things we ate in Rome.

Although the queso cachapa (kind of like a sweet corn crepe stuffed with about a pound of cheese) is delicious too. 

Castel Sant’Angelo

After lunch, make your way towards the river to Castel Sant’Angelo, which is a place that we ordinarily would have skipped, but found ourselves doing on day 8 or 9 because we had plenty of time to fit it in. 

It was built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum, and then the Catholic Church grabbed it and turned it into a fortress. Today, it’s part art museum, part abandoned castle with some cool art installations inside.  

It’s a bit expensive to get in – 14 Euros at the time of writing – but we enjoyed it. The best part, by far, is the terrace on top, which has a lovely view of the Vatican.

Our Favorite Wine Bar in Rome

When in Rome, drink good wine. And our favorite wine in Rome came from Enoteca Il Piccolo, a charming little wine bar in the Centro Storico known for a rotating selection of natural wines from local producers. 

Not only was the wine – specifically a pet-nat, lightly bubbly white wine – great, but the experience was unique too! For context, we speak minimal Italian – enough to get by, order food, and pay, but that’s about it. 

I attempted to describe, in Italian, what kind of wine I wanted (Alysha went straight for the bubbles – CLASSIC!), and it was a little bit of a disaster.

An older gentleman, who I believe was the owner, was helping me, and he took my attempt, turned around, left, and brought me back a great glass of wine that perfectly matched what I was hoping for. All with about ten words spoken between us. 

They have a nice little terrace outside that is a great place for a glass of wine on a warm afternoon, and sell wine by the bottle if you want to get one to enjoy later. 

Dinner in the Centro Storico

After you’ve enjoyed some Italian wine, it’s time to dive into the best part about Rome – the food!

In the Centro Storico, you’ve got a lot of options, but they generally get worse the closer you get to popular places like Trevi Fountain and Campo de’ Fiori, so we’d recommend picking a place around a few blocks from those main spots if you can. 

For what it’s worth, we really enjoyed Pantha Rei, a restaurant tucked away on an alley near the Pantheon with gluten free (and gluten-full) options. You can see the Pantheon from their outdoor terrace. 

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina is one of the most highly rated restaurants in Rome – make a reservation if you want to eat here! This is our top pick based on recommendations from locals (though, for gluten reasons, we didn’t eat there ourselves) if you are able to get a table.

Post-dinner, get gelato at either Grom (one of our favorite gelato spots in Rome and the rest of Italy) or Fatamorgana (my favorite gelato – also all gluten free – after a thorough investigation on my latest trip).

Here’s a guide to eating in Rome that we really enjoyed, despite not being able to eat at 95% of the places she recommends (plus, if you’re truly a foodie, you should probably do one of her food / walking tours).

But First, Traditional Italian Coffee in the Centro Storico

As someone who likes my fancy pour over coffee when I’m at home, I do have a major soft spot for the experience of drinking an espresso (“un caffe”) at the bar in Italy. 

Picture this: you walk into a small, skinny space packed with people standing shoulder-to-shoulder at the bar, talking amongst themselves and bantering in Italian with the barista (complaining about something, usually), who is generally wearing a white collared shirt, a tie, and an apron. 

It’s loud, it’s a little chaotic, and it’s quick. Most people are in and out within a couple of minutes, which is partially because they charge extra to sit at a table versus standing at the bar. 

It’s different, and it’s absolutely one of my favorite things to experience in Italy. Is it the “best” coffee? Probably not. Is it worth seeking out the experience? Absolutely yes. 

The other thing to keep in mind about Italian coffee is that they LOVE their crema, that thick layer of lighter foam (it’s not actually foam, but it’s the best word I can find to describe it) that sits on top of a shot of espresso. 

If you’re not into espresso (you should try it, at least once!) then you can order a cappuccino or macchiato, but keep in mind that Italians only really drink those in the morning, and you will get funny looks if you order one in the afternoon. 

The Borghese Gallery + Villa Borghese

Spend the afternoon exploring the best green space in the city – the Villa Borghese – and experiencing the only art museum (unless you count the Vatican Museums, I suppose) on this itinerary, the Borghese Gallery. 

Tickets for the Borghese Gallery are notoriously hard to get because of the extreme limits on people allowed inside at a given time, so book your visit as early as possible. Only 360 people are permitted into this exclusive art gallery every day. 

We recommend you pre-book tickets as soon as humanly possible so that you have a chance to experience what we think is the most interesting museum in Rome (sorry, Vatican). You can do so here. 

It might seem expensive, but you’ll get to experience masterpieces from Italian masters like Barberini, Caravaggio, and Raphael with all the context and details you’ll want to have to truly appreciate what you’re looking at. 

However, if you only have the budget for one tour, I’d still do the Colosseum and Forum, which benefit the most from that added context and history (followed by the Vatican Museums + St. Peter’s). 

We always do tours of art museums after some great experiences at the Prado Museum in Madrid and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, and highly recommend it if you’re, like us, not really an art gallery kind of person. 

The stories behind the artists and paintings that an expert brings to the table really give you a deeper, richer experience, and help you focus on the important things in a huge museum full of amazing art. 

We’re suckers for good sculptures and all the craft and care that goes into getting every fold and crease of skin just right, and that’s really where the Borghese Gallery shines. 

The gallery holds a vast collection of some of the best paintings and sculptures from Italian masters like Barberini, Carvaggio, and Rapheal, all accumulated by the Borghese family.

They moved to Rome from Siena and became one of the city’s most prestigious families (not to mention wealthiest), which led to them commissioning and purchasing all sorts of art. 

The gallery is relatively small, but it is PACKED full of beautiful pieces. 

The museum is laid out over two floors, and one of the floors was actually closed for renovation when I was there last.

However, after spending two hours with Anna, my Walks of Italy guide, on just the first floor, I’m not even sure how you would fit both floors into just a couple of hours. 

I walked away more than satisfied, in awe of the emotional power of sculptures (something I don’t necessarily feel about paintings like I do about sculptures or other mediums like music).

It’s wild to me how much emotion and movement can come out of what is essentially a carved up piece of rock. 

I also love that sculptures have higher stakes than, say, paintings (with some exceptions). You can paint over a mistake in a painting with relative ease – not so in a sculpture!

One thing to note about the museum is that bags need to be checked (which is safe). Either plan on checking your bag, or leave the bag at home for this part of the day. 

After the museum, if you choose to do it, spend some time walking through the Villa Borghese, which is a pretty magnificent green space in the heart of Rome.

Choose Your Own Foodie Adventure

Diving into the food culture in places we’re visiting is one of our favorite aspects of traveling, and we try to include a food tour, cooking class, or market tour in most places we visit. 

Unfortunately, the reality is that because Matt has Celiac Disease and can’t have even a speck of gluten without being sick for days, a food tour or cooking class wasn’t in the cards for us. 

HOWEVER. That does NOT mean it shouldn’t be for you! We’d highly recommend it because it gives you a local’s perspective on the city’s food scene – what and where to eat and drink – and you get to connect with fellow travelers and try some amazing food.

Here are some options for you, split between food tours and cooking classes. Our bias is to do a cooking class, because we LOVE to cook, but we also enjoy a good food tour. 

The real reason to head to Trastevere in the morning is to tackle one of our favorite walks in Rome, which we sort of accidentally discovered on one of our last days in Rome on our latest trip.

The walk takes you up the hill behind Trastevere to Belvedere del Gianicolo – where you’ll find a great view over the city – and then back down the other side. 

Along the way, there are some really good explanatory panels that describe the historical importance of this area during Italy’s struggle for independence in the mid-19th Century. 

Giuseppe Garibaldi, an Italian general during the period immediately before the unification of Italy, is considered to be one of the most important figures in modern Italian history, and there was a battle on this hill above Trastevere that was key in establishing Italy’s independence. 

Though, it should be said that the Italian Republic he fought to establish was short-lived, and came back under a new name and brand a decade or so later, which is what has remained to this day. 

There’s a statue of him in the middle of the plaza at the Belvedere del Gianicolo. 

Here’s a map of the route, and the stops we’d recommend, which ends at Roma San Pietro, where you can catch the train out to Testaccio, the other neighborhood you’ll be exploring today. 

It costs a couple of Euros per person – buy tickets from the machines at the station, and be sure to validate them before boarding the train. 

The first thing to know about Testaccio is that it’s a great food neighborhood.

The food scene is centered around Mercato Testaccio, a big food market that’s roughly half stands selling produce, meat, and cheese, and half stands selling ready-to-eat food (plus some other stands selling random knick knacks and/or shoes). This is where you should have lunch.  

It’s not overrun by tourists. It’s not wildly overpriced for what it is. It’s a place where locals go to shop and eat. If you’re interested in going deeper, look at this Testaccio Food Tour. 

Here are some other places to check out in Testaccio: 

• Tram Depot: A lovely outdoor spot to grab coffee and a pastry or two in the Italian sun. It’s a former tram, now refurbished and serving up good coffee to mostly locals (we were the only tourists there as far as we could tell).
  
  
• The Non-Catholic Cemetery: When Rome was still a devout Catholic city, the remains of protestant foreigners weren’t permitted to be buried in the regular cemeteries alongside the Catholic citizens. Instead a few non-Catholic cemeteries sprung up to accommodate them and the one in Testaccio is one of the most famous. Remains of Percy Shelley and John Keates can be found buried here. There are also some great views of the Piramide di Caio Cestio, an Egyptian-style pyramid in the middle of Rome, commissioned by a rich Roman guy in the 1st Century B.C.E. that still stands today.
  
  
• Volpetti Salumeria: A popular market selling all manner of meats, cheeses, preserves, baked goods, and wine. It is open everyday and perfect for grabbing picnic food to enjoy while exploring Rome. Mingle with the locals as they go about their daily shopping to purchase the ingredients used in real Italian cooking.

An Evening in Trastevere

For your last evening in Rome, return to where you started the day – Trastevere – and explore the neighborhood at its best, which is undoubtedly when the sun starts to set over the Tiber. 

We don’t have much of an agenda for you here – we think the best thing to do is to wander the streets and soak in the atmosphere.

Did we mention that we LOVE Trastevere and we think it’s the coolest place to stay in Rome? We did? Oh, okay, cool. 

While we don’t have an agenda, we DO have some recommendations for you to start your exploration. 

Don’t miss the Basilica Santa Maria, a beautiful church in the center of the neighborhood filled with gold mosaics by Cavallini. This is one of the prettiest and most underrated churches in Rome – though you wouldn’t really know it from the façade – so it’s a must see in this area. 

The square in front of it is a meeting place of sorts so is an amazing place to sit and people watch by the fountain.

The other thing you should know about Trastevere is that it has amazing nightlife. Trastevere is one of the liveliest neighborhoods in Rome packed with little bars and trattorias that stay open to the early hours.

There are no clubs here but plenty of small wine bars and craft beer to sip on until the first light of dawn. In summer, bars and restaurants spill out into the streets with tables and chairs outside to enjoy the long sunlight hours.

We like Mama Eat for dinner because they have great gluten free options, and Freni e Frizioni was recommended to us by both a friend and the host at our hotel, though we found it to be expensive and full of tourists (though the spritz was good and the location is great).

Les Vignerons is an amazing little wine and beer store run by a very passionate man (we had a small disagreement, exacerbated by my terrible Italian, about gluten free beer) that is perfect for picking up a bottle of wine, beer, or – and this was a surprise to us – cider!

Highly recommend it if you’re looking for a place to buy wine or beer. 

What to Do with Less Time in Rome

If you have less time in Rome, you could either try and fit the same amount of things to do in a shorter time period, or you could be more selective about what to do and see, and save the others for a later trip. 

We’d recommend the latter, which is generally how we approach travel. Pick a few sights, go deep on those, and save the rest for another visit. 

For each of these itineraries, you can use the relevant sections in the detailed itinerary above to help you figure out the logistics around each of the sites mentioned. 

What to Do with One Day in Rome

If you only have one day in Rome, I hope you’re ready for a whirlwind. If you come to Rome and it’s your first time, you’re going to want to see the Colosseum, the Vatican, and the Centro Storico.

Fitting all three of those sights in a single day is going to be exhausting, and it’s exactly the kind of travel that we don’t usually recommend because it’s just running from place to place without the time to truly experience the place you’re exploring.

But, if you only have one day in Rome, here’s how we would spend it. 

First, do a morning tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum. 

Afterwards, have lunch in the Centro Storico (we’d recommend Antico Forno Roscioli) and get gelato at either Fatamorgana or Grom. You can also try to fit in an authentic Italian espresso-at-the-counter experience at Tazza d’Oro too. 

After lunch, do the walk from Campo de’ Fiori to the Spanish Steps, passing by Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon along the way. 

In the late afternoon / early evening, hit the Vatican at closing time, when it’s much more peaceful. End with dinner in Prati or Trastevere. 

What to Do with 2 Days in Rome

If you have two days in Rome, spend it on four main things: the Colosseum and Forum, the Vatican, a walk through the Centro Storico, and an evening in Trastevere. 

Spend your first morning taking a guided tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum, which will give you a richer experience and help you understand the context behind what you’re looking at.

Have lunch in Monti before heading to the Centro Storico and walking from Campo de’ Fiori to the Spanish Steps, ending at Piazza del Popolo. 

On your second day, do an early morning tour of the Vatican, head up to admire the view from the top of Castel Sant’Angelo, then head to Trastevere for aperitivo, dinner, and drinks. 

What to Do with 3 Days in Rome

With 3 Days in Rome, follow the full itinerary above as written with one change. Cut day four, and spend the evening of day one in Trastevere instead. 

What to Do with More Time in Rome

If you have more than four days in Rome, there’s still plenty to do and see in the Eternal City.

Between our last two trips to Rome, we’ve spent more than two weeks in the Eternal City, and we’re still finding new things to do and see on the last day.

One thing we would NOT recommend is a day trip to Pompeii. It is just way too far to go in a day – you’ll need to travel about six hours when it’s all said and done. You need at least 1-2 days (preferably with a stay in Napoli). 

The Catacombs: Take a tour of the Capuchin Crypts to get into the dark history that lies under Rome’s streets. 

Pasta / Wine in Frascati: Get out of the city for an evening and head out to nearby Frascati, a well-known wine region in Lazio, for a cooking class / wine tasting extravaganza. 

Wine tasting near Rome: One thing we loved about our trip to Italy is trying alllll the different Italian grape varietals! At home, we really get only a handful of grapes. In Italy, each region has their own unique grapes, and it’s fun to try them all. For Rome, Frascati is the place to go for wine tasting, and makes a fantastic day trip. The best way to do it without a car is a guided tour – here’s a tour that gets stellar reviews.  

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