Where to Stay in Portland: Complete Guide for First Timers
Portland is one of the coolest cities in the country. Period. We might be a little biased, considering we live here, but the word is getting out thanks to Netflix shows visiting to explore the amazing food scene and the increasing popularity of outdoor adventure in the Pacific Northwest.
If you’re planning a trip to Portland, the first (and arguably second most important question after “where will we eat?”) question you might ask yourself is around where to stay for your visit.
If that sounds like you, you’re in the right place!
We’re Matt and Alysha, two Portland locals who, prior to moving here permanently after living in a minivan for a few years on a road trip around the country, visited Portland ten different times (!!).
We stayed in a range of different areas, and we’re here to combine our experiences as visitors and residents to help you choose the perfect place to stay for your particular travel style and budget.
Portland is a relatively compact city – one of the things we love about it (no more 45 minute journeys to travel two miles!) – but each of the neighborhoods in the city center has a distinct look and feel to it.
From the historic buildings of downtown Portland, to the modern high rises in the Pearl District and the leafy tree-lined streets in Northwest, we’re here to help you make sense of it all and find the best area to stay in Portland for your trip.
In this guide, we’re going to use our experiences exploring our home city to do our best to walk you through all the information you need to figure out the best place to stay in Portland for your particular style, budget, and preferences.
Each neighborhood offers a different blend of vibes, prices, and pros and cons, and we’ll cover it all below so that you’re armed with all the information you need to figure out where to stay for your particular style and budget.
Our intention is that, by the end of this guide, you have everything you need to choose the right place to stay for you and your travel companions.
Sound good to you? Let’s get into it.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we don’t stand behind 100%.
Where to Stay in Portland: The 5 Best Places to Stay
And now, on to the main event!
Our philosophy when it comes to deciding on a place to stay is to first choose the neighborhood, then move on to finding a great hotel, hostel, or apartment in that area.
The reality is that, depending on what you’re looking for, there are other neighborhoods not included in this guide that might meet your needs. But these are the five that we think are the best for 99% of travelers, and we’ve shown our work, doing our best to explain why we think that.
For each of the neighborhoods below, we’ve created a structure to help you figure out if it’s the right home base for you. Here’s what we’ll cover:
- An overview of the neighborhood and our experience with it. We’ve personally been to and explored (more than once) all of the areas on this list, so we’ll try to give you a little bit of our perspective on what makes each area special.
- Pros and cons of staying in this area. The things you need to know to make your decision.
- Highlights of the neighborhood. Coffee shops, restaurants, parks, etc that we enjoyed, and think you probably will too.
Now, we’re well aware that a few of you are currently ready to throw your left shoe at the screen, saying “I don’t have time to read all of that, JUST TELL ME THE BEST PLACE TO STAY!”
Well, here’s a quick summary of this guide if you’re short on time (though we’d recommend reading the section of the place you end up staying for tips and places to add to your list!).
- Our overall recommendation is to find a hotel on the Central Eastside, which is probably our favorite part of Portland. It’s close to the river, which means you can walk to downtown Portland and all the sights there (don’t miss Powell’s Books!) but it’s a little more residential and, as a result, quieter. We have personally stayed at the Jupiter NEXT Hotel, a beautiful boutique hotel, but we also like some of the more affordable options in the area like the Kex. If you’re looking for a unique stay, look at the tiny homes at Tiny Digs (which is near one of our favorite food/drink stretches in the city on 28th).
- If it’s your first time in Portland, you can’t go wrong with downtown Portland. Downtown Portland is about as central as it gets, walking distance to…pretty much everything. We’d recommend staying in the southern half of the neighborhood near Pioneer Courthouse Square (check out the budget-friendly Hyatt Centric, the stylish Heathman Hotel, or the hip Hotel Zags).
- For a balance between the location of downtown and the vibes on the Eastside, stay in the Northwest District. You’ll be walkable to downtown and Washington Park (home of the International Rose Test Garden), and right in the middle of some of the best food in the city. Stay at the Inn at Northrup Station, which is a little odd, but is the best hotel in this neck of the woods.
- If you want a more residential neighborhood full of great places to eat and drink, look at Southeast Portland. It’s our favorite part of Portland (we live in the area!) and the stretches of Division and Hawthorne are two of the best places to wander in the city. The downside is that there are very few places to stay. There are two guesthouses in great locations – Bluebird and Evermore – and a handful of nice vacation rentals (like this studio above the garage and this basement level guest suite).
A brief note on Airbnb (and other vacation rentals) in Portland: It is illegal to rent out an entire house or apartment that you don’t live in for the majority of the time in Portland (though the city has been slow to crack down on it).
However, it is legal to rent out things like a backyard bungalow, basement guest suite, or studio above the garage where the owner lives onsite. We know (because it’s also true of us) that you might prefer a little more space or a different experience than staying downtown, and there are pockets of the city without any hotels to speak of.
So here’s our recommendation: for the best experience, stay in a vacation rental where the owner lives onsite, like a backyard bungalow or a studio over the garage. And don’t stay in one in the downtown core, because it’s either a) illegal or b) worse than staying in a hotel.
Downtown Portland: The Most Convenient Place to Stay (for First Timers)
If you’re from out of town, you probably have some preconceived notions about downtown Portland that involve the words “riots” and “on fire” thanks to some pretty questionable media coverage about downtown Portland over the past few years.
Every single time we mention Portland and how much we love it to people from out of town, they go on and on about how Portland is a disaster and how it’s completely unsafe thanks to the “rioters” and “looters.”
We’re here to tell you that it’s at best sensationalized, and at its worst a cynical deliberate mischaracterization. Though, that’s not to say that Portland is all sunshine and roses (it is in July and August, though!).
It is untrue that downtown Portland is “dying” or “full of rioters.” In fact, I can safely say that we have seen exactly zero “rioters” in our entire time in Portland, both as visitors and once we moved here.
However, it is true that, like many cities in the western United States including our former homes of Seattle and San Francisco, Portland is confronting two converging crises – a housing crisis (rents rose almost 40% from 2021 to 2022) and a mental health crisis.
That convergence means that there is a visible unhoused population in Portland.
It is most noticeable in the northeastern part of downtown (north of W Burnside Street and east of North Park Blocks, near Voodoo Doughnut), and we’d recommend looking further southwest if you want to stay downtown.
That’s where the hotel recommendations below are located.
Please remember that the people you see on the street are human beings, and many of them are suffering from untreated mental health issues. They are humans. They’ve been utterly failed by our government and social safety net. They’re not a scourge to be cleaned up so we can feel better about ourselves.
Talking about other humans in a way that strips them of their humanity is, frankly, disgusting.
You may experience being yelled at, or see people using drugs in broad daylight, which is really, really sad. But, for the most part, they are not going to harass or hurt you.
All that said, families with small children and solo travelers might feel safer in other parts of Portland.
Overall, downtown Portland is a great, central home base to use for exploring Portland, especially if it’s your first time in town and you want to do some of the main tourist attractions, like the International Rose Test Garden and Powell’s City of Books.
Plus, there are tons of hotels to choose from that serve a wide variety of budgets and styles.
Like we mentioned above, it’s probably most pleasant to stay in the southwestern part of this area, south of Burnside and west of SW Park.
Pros and Cons of Staying Downtown
Here are the pros and cons of using Downtown as your home base for exploring the city as we see them.
Pros of Staying in Downtown Portland
- Central Location. It’s central, located in between the parks to the west – Forest Park and Washington Park – and the cute neighborhoods on the eastern side of the river.
- Hotel Selection. This area has the best selection of hotels in the city. And it’s not close. Whether you’re looking for a solid affordable stay, or you’re in the mood to celebrate a special occasion and want a swanky luxury hotel, there are plenty of options downtown.
- Good Transit Connections. MAX Lines (that’s the overground tram) and TriMet buses run through downtown, and will take you just about anywhere you need to go, including the airport, Portland International Airport (PDX).
Cons of Staying in Downtown Portland
- The Food and Drinks. All of our favorite places to eat and drink in Portland are outside of the downtown core, either in the Northwest District, or across the river in Southeast Portland or Northeast Portland. Plan on eating most of your meals outside of downtown if you stay here.
- The Visible Unhoused Population. While we don’t think this is necessarily a reason to avoid downtown Portland, it’s undeniable that seeing your fellow humans living on the street is a bummer. And you will see it if you spend any time downtown (which you should).
Downtown Portland Highlights
Here are some places that we like, and think you will too.
- Powell’s City of Books: The absolute best bookstore in the world. SUPPORT INDEPENDENT BOOKSTORES. Book lovers, I dare you to try and walk in here and leave with less than $100 in new reads. I’m pretty convinced that it’s impossible.
- The PSU Farmers Market: This is, hands down, the best farmers market I’ve ever been to. It’s massive! Hundreds of vendors to choose from. If it tells you anything about how I feel about it, this was a staple of my bachelor party in Portland (it might also tell you something about how I enjoy spending my time). It’s open year round, rain or shine. Chai, kombucha, cider, bakeries, farm-fresh fruit and vegetables. Heaven on earth for foodies, and it’s all local!
- The Portland Saturday Market: Less a farmers market, more of an arts and crafts market. This takes place on Saturdays down by the water (in Tom McCall Waterfront Park), and is well worth a stroll along the riverfront to check it out.
- Petunia’s Pies and Pastries: The best gluten free donuts in Portland. Go on weekend mornings early to get donuts! Other times, they have a variety of gluten free and vegan treats, like cakes, cookies, muffins, and more.
- Coffee in Downtown Portland: As you might imagine, there’s a bunch of good coffee in downtown Portland. PDX Coffee Club and Less and More are my top two picks, though there are a nearly unlimited number of good options. Read more in our guide to the best coffee in Portland.
The Best Places to Stay in Downtown Portland
Here are a couple of nice places to stay in downtown Portland.
Heathman Hotel: Our Pick for the Best Hotel Downtown
The Heathman Hotel is our top hotel pick in downtown Portland, and it’s tough to find an aspect here that we aren’t fans of.
Let’s start with the location. The Heathman is on SW Broadway, a few blocks from three important things: Pioneer Courthouse Square, Less and More Coffee (both locations), and the South Park Blocks, which are home to the Oregon Historical Society, Portland Art Museum, and the incredible PSU Farmers Market (on Saturday mornings).
Staying here puts you within walking distance of those places, plus the rest of downtown Portland, the Pearl, and Northwest District.
Next, let’s talk about the hotel itself.
It’s housed in a historic building – the original Heathman Hotel was built here in 1926, and this location was built next door a couple of years later – though it has been carefully renovated and restored more recently than that (obviously!).
Rooms here are relatively spacious, and they have two varieties – hotel rooms, and suites. The biggest difference is the addition of more seating area in the suites, along with a one bedroom suite that has a sofa bed in the living area (good for families traveling with kids).
In terms of amenities, you’ve got a fitness center, a common area that includes a library, and complimentary rental bikes (which you should use to go ride the riverfront loop!).
However, there is an amenity fee of $29, which we truly don’t like (this is the one negative) and wish hotels would just price it into their room rates (they don’t because they’d rather show you a lower rate, and then bait-and-switch with an added fee later).
It’s also pet-friendly, with a pet fee of $50 per stay that includes things like a water bowl, bed, and treats.
Hotel Zags: A More Hip, Modern Hotel
Hotel Zags is another nice option in a similar area to the Heathman – it’s further south, which does mean it’s further away – with a more hip and modern finish.
It’s on the other end of the South Park Blocks, which is going to mean a few extra blocks of walking to get to the heart of downtown (though there are also ample public transit options that run right by the hotel too).
They have rooms and “suites” (the difference is that the suites have a door between the living space and the bedroom), and some have city views, some have interior garden views.
Amenities include access to their “gear shed” where you can rent out bikes, backpacks (for hiking), and various games, a complimentary continental breakfast (though it’s Portland, so you should really head over to Fried Egg I’m in Love or one of the many doughnut shops nearby), and day passes to a gym nearby.
Another hotel, another amenity fee. This time it’s $35 a night… which is absurd (it’s like 30% of the room rate!). Make sure you take that into account when you’re looking at prices.
Pets are allowed, and it’s a two dog maximum (no weight/breed restrictions) and a $45 one-time fee.
Hyatt Centric: An Affordable Option in a Great Location in Downtown Portland
The Hyatt Centric in Portland is BRAND NEW, and is right in the heart of downtown within blocks of some of Portland’s best bars, restaurants, and shopping.
It’s a pretty big hotel – with 220 rooms – all of which are pretty spacious (~250-300 square feet) and some of which have great views of the Portland skyline.
They differentiate between “rooms” and “suites,” with suites / studios having a seating area, and rooms being a standard hotel-style layout (though they do have desks).
First choose your room type, then your layout (one King or two Queens, mostly), and then decide if you want to pay a slight upcharge to have a room with a view. Lots of choices to make!
There’s a fitness center onsite, along with a bar and restaurant and some nice common areas on the ground floor.
They do have onsite parking if you need it at $47 a night (valet only).
They’re also pet-friendly. Up to two dogs are allowed, although there’s a 50 pound weight limit (or 75 pounds combined) and a $100 nonrefundable fee to bring them along.
The Central Eastside: Our #1 Recommendation For Visitors in Portland
The Central Eastside is the industrial area just east of the Willamette River, directly across the water from the downtown core.
As a general rule, we would do your best to stay EAST of Grand and MLK Blvd, which are two main thoroughfares through the city and can be very, very loud and busy. Plus, the area to the east of those two streets is much more charming, and it’s closer to some of our favorite parts of the neighborhood.
We like this area because it’s about as central as it gets in terms of our favorite things to do and see in Portland. It’s across the river from downtown, walkable to southeast Portland (Division and Hawthorne), and an easy bus or rideshare ride to NE Portland (Alberta and Mississippi).
Which just about covers every part of Portland that you’re going to be visiting over the course of your trip, depending on how much time you have.
Like we mentioned already (we think it’s worth reiterating), plan on staying east of 99E (Grand and MLK). That’s where all of the recommended hotels below are located, and we think it’s the best part of the neighborhood to stay in.
Pros and Cons of Staying in the Central Eastside
Here are the pros and cons of using the Central Eastside as your home base for exploring the city as we see them.
Pros of Staying in the Central Eastside
- Central Location. Like the name suggests, this is a great central area between the main areas you’ll want to visit in Portland.
- Public Transportation Links. Between the MAX line and the various bus lines that run through it, the Central Eastside is well connected to the rest of the city. Plus, you can always walk.
Cons of Staying in the Central Eastside
- Parking is Tough. As you get further east into the residential area, parking gets significantly easier. But in the area just across the river, not so much. If you have a car, make sure to check if your hotel has parking available (and we’d probably recommend a garage if you can).
- It’s Far From the Parks. Washington and Forest Park are on the other side of the river, past the downtown core. Not really a deal breaker, but definitely something worth considering if you’re planning on spending a lot of time over there.
Central Eastside Highlights
Here are some of our favorite spots in this neighborhood.
- Sunflower Sake: One of the things we love about Portland is the culture of starting and supporting small businesses (especially in the food and drink space, where Portland is elite). This cute and cozy sake shop is run by Nina, who came from the wine industry and has quickly built a beautiful business dedicated to her passion for sake. She’s the best, and we bring all of our out-of-town here to a) learn about sake and b) experience the specialness that comes with a single proprietor business. We love this place, we love Nina, and we recently joined their sake club. Go for the Wednesday lessons to dive deep into one aspect of sake.
- Smith Tea: Alysha loves tea, and Smith Tea is among the best tea companies around. They have a facility in the Central Eastside with a tasting room (and another location in Northwest, but we prefer this one). It’s a beautiful space where you can try some of their tea – from nitro chai (we recommend), to a single origin tea brewed to perfection.
- Kann: Our favorite restaurant in Portland for special occasions and bringing friends to, they focus on Haitian cuisine inspired by chef Gregory Gourdet’s heritage, and use the incredible bounty of local ingredients to create an ever-changing menu of delightful flavor combinations that lean spicy (we’re into it, but we can see how some might have a bad time). Their cauliflower is what dreams are made of. Great cocktails and desserts too! It’s by far the hardest reservation to get, and we usually check in the days leading up to when we want to go for cancellations / newly released reservations.
- Schilling Cider: One of our favorite places for cider in the world (they also have a location in Seattle that we frequent…often). They have 50 cider taps, and a helpfully color-coded menu if you’re not sure whether you prefer sweet or dry. Get a flight! Plus, a 100% gluten free kitchen with gluten free corn dogs and loaded tots! Great outdoor patio too, perfect place to grab a drink on a warm summer afternoon.
- Food Carts: When in Portland, do as the Portlanders do and eat at a food cart AT LEAST once. There are two here in the Central Eastside, both about a block away from each other so you can peruse both before deciding which one to choose. Cartopia is kitty corner to Ladd’s Addition, and Hawthorne Asylum is a block or two away towards the river (we like the gluten free fried chicken at Your Side Chicks, and the Slavic dumplings at Plemeni Plemeni).
- Cowbell Cheese: A delightful little cheese shop in the industrial section of the Central Eastside where you’ll find a staggering selection of cheeses from all around the world (plus cured meats, sandwiches, and imported food items like pistachio pesto, pasta, tomatoes, and plenty more). The staff are the best part, though, and they’re always incredibly friendly and willing to help you find a cheese (or seven) that you will love.
- Explore the Breweries: Like Away Days and Living Häus, which are all within walking distance of one another. Although there are countless breweries in this part of the city. Unfortunately, I have Celiac Disease, so I can’t drink beer. Unless it is 100% gluten free, like the beer at Ground Breaker Brewing, which is also nearby.
- Berlu Bakery: This is another great example of a small food business that is a reflection of the owner’s passions and interests. In this case, it’s Vince, a James Beard Award winner who comes from the world of fine dining, and now focuses on baking pastries inspired by his Vietnamese roots. Of the gluten free bakeries in Portland, this is our favorite for trying something completely new (to us, anyway). Bonus: everything is 100% gluten and dairy-free, too! Vince used to also run a fine dining restaurant here which we managed to make it to when we were celebrating becoming homeowners in Portland, and I have truly never experienced some of the flavor explosions that I had during that two hour extravaganza. Pro-tips: Order on their website in advance (they always sell out), and try the soups (which have been one of our winter favorites this past year).
The Best Places to Stay in the Central Eastside
Here are a few cool places to stay on the east side of the river.
The Jupiter Next Hotel: A Cool, Locally Owned Boutique Hotel
We’ve personally stayed at the Jupiter NEXT Hotel (before we moved to Portland), and would 100% recommend it.
Created by locals – the same people who run the Jupiter Hotel across the street, which is a local institution and is home to one of the most famous music venues in the city, the Doug Fir Lounge – who have brought that unique Portland charm to life in hotel form.
The Jupiter NEXT is across the street from the original location, and was opened in 2018 as a more upscale, boutique stay.
First, the location. It’s on Burnside in the Central Eastside, and we walked to downtown Portland from the hotel in about 20 minutes, give or take. If you don’t feel like walking, there are multiple bus lines that will take you downtown in about 15 minutes.
Second, the room itself. The beds are super comfortable, and the decor reflects Portland’s unique spirit. I’m pretty certain they must have commissioned a lot of the pieces themselves. The rooms on the west side of the building also have a great view of the skyline.
Last, the amenities and the staff. Free GOOD coffee ready for you in the morning (in the lobby), friendly staff that we found ourselves chatting with every time we passed through the lobby, and some nice decks, outdoor, and indoor spaces to hang out outside of your room.
And don’t forget Hey Love, the great cocktail bar on the ground floor!
The downsides here are price and parking.
It’s definitely not the cheapest option around, so if you’re on a tight budget you’ll probably want to look elsewhere.
Parking on the street is available, but there are limits on weekdays (make sure to read all signage) that make it a little impractical. You can pay for parking in their underground garage, which costs $25 a night (they have an outdoor lot for $15, but we’d recommend parking in the secure lot in this area).
The Kex Hotel: An Affordable Stay at a Stylish Hotel/Hostel Hybrid
The Kex Hotel is part of an Icelandic chain (I say chain, but they have exactly two locations at the time of writing – the other one is in Reykjavik), and toes the line between a hotel and a boutique hostel.
They have rooms with bunk beds and shared bathrooms, which are a good option if you’re REALLY on a budget. But they also have standard hotel-style rooms if you like the idea of a more social environment, but are too old to sleep in dorms (guilty as charged, your honor).
Some of the private rooms here have a private bathroom down the hall, which will save you a few dollars on your stay (without you actually having to share a bathroom with other people).
It’s an old building, and the style here really leans into that age. Rather than renovating and completely changing the building, they’ve worked with what they have and the rooms are a little rustic, each with its own character.
Rooms are fairly small, but affordable, which is part of the reason you’d stay here. There are some nice common areas throughout the hotel, including a bar on the ground floor AND a rooftop bar, and a cool library room.
One unique aspect is that they have “Family Rooms” that have a queen bed and two bunk beds, which is a fun way for a family to travel together.
No pets allowed at the Kex, so either leave your furry friend at home, or stay elsewhere in Portland.
One note about parking: There is no onsite parking here, which means it’s best for people who don’t have a car. There are a few lots nearby, some covered and supervised, some not, but we probably wouldn’t park there.
Tiny Digs: Tiny Home Living (The Most Unique Stay in Portland)
This place is peak Portland. Tiny Digs is a collection of tiny homes organized in a little village that is probably one of the most unique hotels in Portland. Plus, it’s essentially right on SE 28th, the aforementioned great stretch of food and drinks in this part of Portland.
Each of the tiny homes here is uniquely designed around a theme, and they all have full kitchens, air conditioning, and a little deck out front.
Of the options, we like the Bamboo House (complete with a little Koi pond out front), the Red Barn, and the Beach House.
Pets are allowed here, but you should know that there’s a two pet limit, a 50 lb combined weight limit, and a $50 nonrefundable fee per pet.
Southeast Portland: Our Favorite Part of Portland
Over our many recent trips to cities around the world, we consistently find that our favorite neighborhoods to spend time in are the ones that are mainly residential, but have commercial strips running through them with bars, coffee shops, restaurants, and shops.
And that’s exactly what Southeast Portland is.
We’re biased here because this is our neighborhood, but we think Southeast Portland is the best part of the city for just about everything.
We’ve split the southeast quadrant of Portland into two pieces here – the Central Eastside and Southeast Portland – because we think the two offer a completely different experience. The Central Eastside is more urban and industrial, while Southeast leans more residential, charming, and green.
When we’re talking about “Southeast”, we mean the stretch between Hawthorne and Division from SE 20th Ave over to César E Chávez Boulevard / SE 39th Ave (though there are some good spots further east too).
Pros and Cons of Staying in Southeast Portland
Here are the pros and cons of using Southeast Portland as your home base for exploring the city as we see them.
Pros of Staying in Southeast
- The local vibe. This is a more residential part of the city than any of the others in this guide, and you’ll find plenty of leafy streets and beautiful historic houses – particularly craftsmans – as you walk around the neighborhood. The majority of the people you’ll see here are people who live here going about their day, which we’re into when we’re traveling. However, this does come with a corresponding con (more on that below).
- The food and drinks. It’s truly incredible how much good food there is in this part of the city – gluten free or not – and it’s one of the main reasons we love living here. We have a lot more to say, including many specific recommendations, in the “highlights” section immediately below this one.
- Parking is relatively easy. Unlike other parts of the city, parking here is going to be mostly a breeze. Even near the most popular parts of Division and Hawthorne you have a bunch of residential streets nearby with free street parking, and once you get deeper into the neighborhood it’s plentiful. If you’re coming to Portland with a car, this would be a good option.
Cons of Staying in Southeast
- There’s nowhere to stay. As you might imagine based on the “local vibe” point above, there are very, very few places to stay for tourists in this part of the city. Remember that vacation rentals that are a full house are illegal in Portland, though there are plenty of ADU’s (like backyard bungalows or basement guest suites) around.
- It’s not walkable to other parts of the city. While the neighborhood itself is very walkable, it’s not really within walking distance of other parts of the city like downtown or the parks on the west side. You’ll need to rely on public transit to get downtown, and because you’re in the bottom right corner of the city center, you’ll probably need to use rideshare apps to get to other parts of the city because public transit would just take way too long.
- Airport connections are tough. Staying here means you’ll probably need to take a rideshare or taxi from the airport (or rent a car), because there’s no real way to get here from the airport with public transportation.
SE Portland Highlights
Here are some of our favorite spots in this neighborhood.
The food: There are FAR too many great places to eat and drink in this part of the city to cover them all here, though we’re going to do our best. Here are our favorites, in no particular order (note that not all of these places have gluten free options – Alysha sometimes eats gluten – for those, read our guide to gluten free Portland):
- Rangoon Bistro: One of our favorite restaurants in Portland! They are a classic food cart to full restaurant (and now, two!) story, and it’s easy to see why. Their food is fantastic. Particularly the fried chicken and Laphet salad.
- Magna Kusina: A block off of Division on Clinton, this place started as a pop up and has quickly become one of the most popular places to eat in the neighborhood. It’s Filipino food, and it’s a mix of street food, small plates, noodle dishes, and bigger proteins. It’s a great introduction into Filipino food, if that’s something you’ve never tried before. They’ve begun expanding into different pop ups featuring their chef friends, which is fun. Make a reservation!
- Kashiwagi: We walked by this tiny spot tucked into the back corner of a nondescript parking lot all the time before finally realizing that it was a very popular, very highly rated bento and sushi place. They have good lunch specials, and are very affordable.
- The Turning Peel: Excellent sourdough Neapolitan pizza served in a classic Portland Craftsman style home with an even cuter patio. Do not miss the tiramisu when they have it!
- Oma’s Hideaway: While everyone still mourns the loss of Pok Pok, a Division Street institution that closed in 2020, Oma’s fills the void with incredible hawker food from Singapore and Malaysia. The roti, a handmade flaky Malaysian flatbread, served with parsnip & squash curry hits the spot every time. Plan to share so you can try a bunch of dishes, and be ready for spice.
- Lauretta Jean’s: When was the last time you had pie that wasn’t on a holiday? It doesn’t happen often for us, and walking into Lauretta Jean’s is heaven for pie lovers. They sell pies by the slice and full pies with a wide range of flavors, including rotating fruit and chocolate options. You really can’t go wrong, but salted honey and coconut cream are Alysha’s favorites.
- Pinolo Gelato: Easily the best gelato in Portland, and perhaps the best gelato on the west coast (?). They source ingredients from Italy, and it shows (their pistachio gelato is a darker brown color, not a fluorescent green, which is a sign that it’s made with real pistachios without colorings). It was started by an Italian-American born in Pisa, and it’s legit really, really good.
Where to drink: For wine, you really can’t beat Division Wines for the prices (their flights are an incredible deal), the location, the friendly (and knowledgeable) servers, and the selection. For beer, head to either Little Beast Brewing to try a local brewery, or Imperial Bottle Shop for a selection of many local breweries on tap (with a nice parklet out front). For cocktails, go to Libre (bonus, they also have incredible desserts).
Where to Stay in Southeast Portland
The toughest part about Southeast Portland – and one of the reasons we like it – is the fact that it’s very residential.
There are essentially two places to stay in this neighborhood (that aren’t Airbnb, which we don’t recommend in Portland or anywhere anymore, really). And they’re both near the stretch of Division Street that we really like.
There’s the Bluebird Guesthouse, which is right on Division St in the middle of some of our favorite places to eat and drink. It’s a house that has been renovated to be a bed & breakfast, with six unique rooms and some nice shared spaces.
Then there’s the Evermore Guesthouse, which is a few blocks south of Division and has similar amenities and facilities (unsurprising since they’re owned by the same people).
If you want a vacation rental in this part of the city, we’d like to remind you that renting out entire houses that are not your primary residence is, technically, illegal (even if they’re not enforced by the city).
However, this part of the city is full of great ADU options, like backyard bungalows and basement guest suites where the owner lives onsite (which is a much better experience, anyway!).
Here are a couple of other options that caught our eye:
- Neighborhood Delight – 1BR Apt in SE Portland (a basement apartment within four blocks of Division and even closer to Clinton – great walkable area, with buses to downtown. We know because we live nearby!).
- Magic Barn – 1BR / 1BA (a cozy and quirky backyard bungalow a few blocks from Hawthorne)
- Jewel in the Sky – Modern Studio Loft (studio layout above the garage, with full kitchen and lots of natural light)
Northwest: Central, Walkable, and Charming
Of the four distinct areas in the downtown core, the Northwest District became our favorite pretty quickly once we moved here and spent more time exploring.
Now, it’s worth noting that this part of the city goes by many names – like Nob Hill, the Alphabet District, Slabtown, to name a few – which all refer to sub-neighborhoods here. However, for the most part, any local talking about this part of the city is going to call it “Northwest,” which is what we’re going with here.
It has a lot of the things we like about the Eastside – lots of greenery and tree-lined streets, stretches of commerce with great food, drinks, and shopping, and great access to green spaces (Washington Park is right up the hill!).
However, it also feels distinctly more urban, in the sense that parking is a nightmare and there are tons of people out and about at any time between 10:00am and 10:00pm.
In that sense, it’s a nice balance between the more residential areas on the Eastside and the hustle and bustle of downtown. Which earns it a spot as one of the best places to stay, especially if you don’t have a car.
The two stretches we like are NW 23rd Street and NW 21st Street, which are lined with a bunch of cool places to eat and drink (and shop).
Plus, Providence Park – home of the Portland Timbers and Portland Thorns (the two soccer franchises in Portland) is here, and you’ll often find us at a game on a sunny summer Saturday evening.
Pros and Cons of Staying in Northwest
Here are the pros and cons of using NW as your home base for exploring the city as we see them.
Pros of Staying in Northwest
- Charm Charm Charm! Tree-lined streets and local boutiques. What more could you ask for??
- Access to Green Spaces. It’s a short walk (or drive) up to both Washington Park (where you’ll find the International Rose Test Garden and Hoyt Arboretum) and Forest Park from this area.
- Great Food, Drinks, and Shopping. Foodies will love this area, as some of Portland’s best food and drinks can be found in this slice of Portland.
Cons of Staying in Northwest
- Parking is Tough. Especially on weekends. Most streets have some combination of parking time limits (usually somewhere between two and four hours) and paid parking, sometimes both.
- Average Hotel Options. Similar to the Pearl, there really aren’t that many places to stay in this part of Portland. However, there are a few, and the ones that are here are pretty unique (and skew towards more affordable, which is odd considering the neighborhood, which is somewhat upscale).
Northwest Highlights
The highlights here are clustered around NW 23rd Ave, which runs north/south through the neighborhood.
- Providence Park and the Timbers/Thorns: Are you a soccer fan? The Portland Timbers (and the Portland Thorns) play at Providence Park, and it’s one of the best atmospheres of any soccer stadium in the USA. Particularly when they’re playing the Seattle Sounders, their rivals from the north. Check their schedule here.
- The Meadow: This is one of our favorite stores in Portland, and they now have three locations in Portland. The original is a few blocks from our house on Mississippi Avenue, and it is no exaggeration to say that every person on our Christmas lists got something from them (mostly chocolate). They sell a bunch of things, but largely chocolate, bitters, and salt. They have an outpost on NW 23rd.
The Meadow: This is one of our favorite stores in Portland, and they now have three locations in Portland. The original is a few blocks from our house on Mississippi Avenue, and it is no exaggeration to say that every person on our Christmas lists got something from them (mostly chocolate). They sell a bunch of things, but largely chocolate, bitters, and salt. They have an outpost on NW 23rd. - The food: There are a couple of outstanding spots to eat nearby, but the main one is Ken’s Bakery, which is one of the best bakeries in Portland. For elevated Thai food, check out Langbaan, the 2024 James Beard award winner for most outstanding restaurant in the US (make reservations)! There’s also a Pine State Biscuits outpost at the northern end of the neighborhood. Plus Grassa, Life of Pie, and Pizza Thief. There’s too many of them!
- More specifically, the ice cream: There are three excellent ice cream options in the neighborhood, and each offers something a little different. First, a special shout out for Salt and Straw, which has a location on NW 23rd that we’ve been to. Salt & Straw is no longer a hip little chain confined to the Portland city limits – they now have locations all over the west coast (and Miami, of all places). The innovative seasonal flavors are where Salt & Straw really shines, and we’d implore you to at least try them when you’re here. Second is Fifty Licks, which is a few blocks east on NW 21st, and has more of a Portland vibe these days (they were started by a person who moved here to learn how to brew beer, and ended up making ice cream). Last, and certainly not least, is Kate’s Ice Cream, who recently opened a second location on NW 23rd.
- The Parks: Just up the hill, you’ll find the International Rose Test Garden, Pittock Mansion, and the Hoyt Arboretum, home to some of our favorite hikes in Portland. It’s walkable from the Northwest District, though it’s up a hill.
The Best Places to Stay in the Northwest District
Here are a few cool places to stay in the Northwest District / Slabtown which, as we touched on earlier, tend to skew affordable.
There are two places at the northern end of NW 23rd – the Silver Cloud Inn and the Holiday Inn Express – which are practical, though not exactly the sexiest options in the world.
For a similar price, you can stay at one of the options below which are in better locations and are more unique experiences.
Inn at Northrup Station: A Quirky Hotel w/ Kitchens in Rooms
If you’re looking for a hotel with rooms that have a kitchen (including stovetops), the Inn at Northrup Station is it!
Although not all rooms have a full kitchen, double check the pictures and descriptions to make sure that the room you chose has one, if that’s what you’re looking for.
Another plus of this place is that it’s locally owned and operated, versus being a huge hotel conglomerate.
In terms of decor, this place feels very retro in a fun way. Think bright colors. Lots of bright colors. Rooms are huge – 500 square feet is closer to a studio apartment than a traditional hotel room – and like we covered above, some have full kitchens.
There are also rooms with patios and balconies, if that’s something you’re into.
They have parking – which is included in your room price – along with a continental breakfast AND Portland Streetcar tickets. No pets allowed, so not a great option if you’re traveling with a furry friend.
Portland International Guesthouse: An Affordable Place to Stay
If you’re on a budget, the rooms at the Portland International Guesthouse are a really, really good option for you.
If you’ve spent any time in Europe on a budget (we have!) you may have come across places that rent out affordable rooms with shared bathroom facilities. That’s what’s going on here.
For clarity, when we say “shared bathrooms,” we mean a private, single-occupancy bathroom, just that it’s shared with other guests.
There are four rooms here, and all of them share two bathrooms (and an additional half bath). Most of the rooms can house up to three people.
They also have a garden level apartment that is available for stays of three days or more, which has a full kitchen, private bathroom, and more space.
If you’re bringing a car, they have a limited number of neighborhood parking permits that they can give you for $5 a day which will allow you to park for more than the time. You need to reserve the permit in advance, and keep in mind that you’ll still be looking for street parking in a dense, urban neighborhood.
Two other things to note – no pets or children under 5, and no TVs in the rooms (if that matters to you).
Northwest Portland Hostel: Portland’s Best Hostel
This is another good place to stay in Portland on a budget. This is a hostel, which means they have a mix of dorm rooms and private rooms, along with nice common areas and a more social atmosphere.
Common areas here include access to a full kitchen and nice outdoor courtyard.
The location also can’t really be beat – it’s smack dab in the middle between downtown and NW 23rd. For example, it’s a 10 minute walk to NW 23rd (the coolest street in the area, we think), and a 10 minute walk to Powell’s City of Books in the heart of downtown Portland.
They also have a nice calendar of events to connect with other travelers, from free walking tours to themed happy hours.
In terms of private rooms, they have a range. Some have shared bathrooms, some have private bathrooms. Some have a single queen bed, some have a double bed and a bunk bed (they call them family rooms).
In terms of dorms – if that’s what you’re looking for – they have mixed, male, and female dorm room options with anywhere between 4-8 beds.
The Pearl District: Adjacent to Downtown and Very Walkable
I’m going to be honest, before we moved here, I thought the Pearl District was pretty “meh.”
The location is great – it’s adjacent to both downtown and the Northwest District (it’s also close to Old Town, which is probably not a place you want to spend a whole lot of time).
But as I’ve spent more time wandering around the Pearl District, I’ve come to enjoy it more and more every time I find myself there.
It’s a little more upscale than downtown, and on the southern side of the neighborhood close to downtown, it’s a lot of warehouses and brick buildings that have been transformed from factories to shops, breweries, and restaurants over the past several decades.
If you ask Portland residents who have lived here for 20 or 30 years what part of the city has changed the most, I’d bet that the majority would say the Pearl.
As you get to the northern end of the neighborhood, it’s all modern high rise buildings with what I assume are luxury condos.
Would I want to live in the Pearl District? Probably not – parking is tough, and it’s close enough to downtown that it gets lots of tourists coming through.
Would it be a good place to stay for a few days in Portland? Most definitely!
Pros and Cons of Staying in the Pearl District
Here are the pros and cons of using the Pearl District as your home base for exploring the city as we see them.
Pros of Staying in Pearl District
- Close to Downtown, Northwest, and NE Portland. The Pearl is adjacent to downtown and the Northwest, which means you’re walkable to two great areas for food and drinks. It’s also an easy trip – though not walkable – to Northeast Portland (Mississippi Avenue in particular). We used to live in NE Portland, and it’s a relatively quick journey to get down into the Pearl.
Cons of Staying in the Pearl
- The Hotels are Strictly Okay. Unlike downtown and the Central Eastside, which have some cool hotel options, the options in the Pearl are pretty average, and are all big chain hotels (like Marriott and Hilton).
- It’s close to Old Town. Old Town, which is the area to the east of the Pearl District (around the Lan Su Chinese Garden) towards the river, is rough. There’s a large visible unhoused population living in tents, some of whom have serious mental health issues. The border is roughly North Park Blocks (here on Google Maps), but some of that bleeds over into the Pearl.
Pearl District Highlights
Here are a few places in the Pearl that we like, and think you might too.
- Tanner Springs Park: A former wetland that is now a public park surrounded by concrete, this is an oasis in the middle of the most upscale part of the neighborhood. It’s a cool space and has some information about the effort to preserve this natural habitat in the face of ever-encroaching development.
Tanner Springs Park: A former wetland that is now a public park surrounded by concrete, this is an oasis in the middle of the most upscale part of the neighborhood. It’s a cool space and has some information about the effort to preserve this natural habitat in the face of ever-encroaching development. - Beer and cider galore! 10 Barrel Brewing is one of the most famous breweries in Oregon, and they have a big brewery in the Pearl, complete with rooftop seating. Deschutes Brewery’s Public House is also in the Pearl, and they are in many ways one of the OG craft breweries in Oregon. For cider sourced primarily from the Pacific Northwest, head to small and cozy Cider Bite, who also have board games for you to play while you try some unique ciders.
- And coffee too! Barista is the best of the bunch here, where you can get your coffee expertly made and you’ll get to choose from multiple coffees, including some roasted in house, some from other Pacific Northwest roasters.
The Best Places to Stay in the Pearl District
Here are a couple of places to stay in the Pearl that would make a great home base for exploring the city.
Canopy by Hilton: Stylish and Hip
“Canopy” is Hilton’s hip and trendy hotel brand that is doing its best to compete with modern hotels that are popping up around the world with cool common areas, small but functional rooms, and stylish decor.
And they’re doing pretty well at it, if we’re being honest. This location in the Pearl District is a few blocks from the heart of downtown Portland, and would make an excellent option for a few nights in the City of Roses.
Rooms are stylish and functional, and there’s only a couple of configurations to choose from – a single King, and two Queens. You can choose rooms with a view or corner rooms from there. Rooms are still plenty big, with 300+ square feet to spread out in.
In terms of amenities, you’ll miss out on free breakfast here (which you should be okay with, since Portland is a great breakfast city), but you’ll get access to the rooftop fitness center and some beautifully designed common areas. There’s also an onsite bar and restaurant, but we’re not really sure why you’d eat there while you’re in Portland, surrounded by amazing food.
As far as parking goes, the only onsite option is valet parking at $47 a day, but at least it includes in/out privileges, and is covered and secure. Pets are allowed, but incur a nonrefundable $50 fee and there’s a max weight of 75 pounds.
Hampton Inn and Suites: Affordable with Great Amenities
I’m going to start this particular section out by saying I was very skeptical of any Hampton Inn. But when I saw the reviews of this place, I decided to take a closer look. And, to be honest, I’d totally stay here.
The quality of any given Hampton Inn (or any of the similar set of hotel chains) largely varies by location, and the time since it was renovated.
This particular Hampton Inn and Suites in the Pearl is basically brand new, and rooms are spacious and comfortable, with a standard king room coming in at a whopping 350 square feet (which is gigantic by hotel room standards).
They also have a wide variety of different room sizes and configurations, some with two queen beds, some with a sitting area, and plenty of other options.
The amenities here also really stand out to us – there’s an indoor pool, a fitness center, and a lovely rooftop deck. Plus free breakfast!
As far as parking goes, the only onsite option is valet parking at $46 a day, but at least it includes in/out privileges, and is covered and secure. Pets are allowed, but incur a nonrefundable $125 fee.
Residence Inn: The Best Place to Stay if You Want a Kitchen
If you want a hotel that has rooms with a kitchen (or rooms with multiple bedrooms) for your stay in Portland, you should look at this Residence Inn location.
We often look for places with a kitchen when we travel for various reasons (mostly because Matt has Celiac Disease, and eating out can be a little tricky), and this is exactly the kind of place we’d look for.
It’s at the very northern tip of the Pearl District, which is a little further from downtown, but is actually a really nice location, with a couple of good parks (namely Tanner Springs, which is essentially across the street), some good bars and restaurants (Sisters Coffee and Cooperativa), and plenty of public transit stops nearby.
Plus, you’re actually pretty close to the river, which means it’s an easy hop over the Broadway Bridge to get to places like Mississippi Avenue, which is well worth doing (and is also where we live).
Rooms are massive – the smallest is 450 square feet, and they have two bedroom suites that would be perfect for groups and families of 4.
Amenities include a full fitness center, complete with an indoor pool, some cool common spaces like a courtyard with fire pits, and free breakfast in the morning.
Pets are allowed, but come with a $100 non refundable pet fee. Onsite valet parking is $49 a day, though they do mention a garage that’s a block away that’s self-park.
Where NOT to Stay in Portland
Now that we’ve covered our recommendations on where to stay, we want to quickly take a second to cover the areas we would definitely NOT recommend staying based on our own experiences and knowledge of Portland.
- Old Town / Chinatown: As we’ve mentioned in other places, Portland has a visible homeless population (we’re not going to talk about the causes and solutions here, but it exists). Old Town and Chinatown, which are immediately north of downtown (and east of the Pearl District) are the epicenter, and walking through this area is extremely bleak. We definitely would avoid staying here if you’re at all apprehensive about encountering people in the midst of a mental health and/or addiction crisis. You’re going to see the homeless population at some point during your trip to Portland, but staying here means it’s going to be front and center every time you leave your hotel.
- North Portland: North Portland – which refers to the area up around Portland University on the north banks of the Willamette River – is a cool area, but it’s just not convenient if you’re planning on spending your time exploring Portland as a tourist. You’ll need a car, and you’ll need to plan on a ~15-20 minute drive to most places you’ll be visiting in Portland.
- Northeast Portland: While we love this part of the city – it’s where we lived when we first moved to Portland, and has two of our favorite stretches in Mississippi Avenue and the Alberta Arts District – it’s just not a practical place to stay for visitors. Mostly because there’s basically nowhere to stay (aside from questionably legal vacation rentals). However, you should ABSOLUTELY visit during your trip, just plan to stay elsewhere.
- Lloyd Center / Convention Center: This one comes with a caveat – if you’re coming to Portland for a convention at the Oregon Convention Center, a Blazers game, or a concert at Moda Center (or one of the nearby venues), this would be a good option because you’ll be walkable to those venues. However, for everyone else, we’d highly recommend staying elsewhere. This isn’t a particularly walkable neighborhood, and there really aren’t a whole lot of places we personally go around here.
This is great information! We’re wondering with the effects of the pandemic, like so many businesses being boarded up, is downtown still a good place to stay or would one of the districts be better? Thank you.
Hey Rebecca! We’ve been in Portland multiple times during the pandemic, including a month in February, and spent plenty of time near downtown Portland. With things starting to open back up and tourists coming back to the city, I think it’ll be less “spooky” (businesses closed, fewer people than usual) than it has been. I’d say either downtown or east of the river is going to be great, and it comes down to your preferences (residential vs. downtown living) rather than anything to do with the pandemic. That’s my perspective.
Amazing post! Thanks so much for putting this together.
No problem – Hope it was useful! We always have the “where do we stay?” question when we’re heading to a new city, which is what we’re trying to answer here about Portland.