Where to Stay in Paris: A Complete Guide for First Timers

Le Marais (3rd & 4th): The Best Overall Area in Paris

Between the location (very walkable and central), the great transit connections (both around the city and to the airport), and the amenities (great places to eat and drink), we have a hard time coming up with any cons for Le Marais. 

The biggest one we could come up with was price, which makes total sense when you read the first sentence of this section where we gush about why this is a great neighborhood to use as a home base. 

To the extent that a “Historic Center” exists in Paris, like it does in many Italian cities, Le Marais is it. It obviously looks very different than it did during that time period, but you still have pockets of narrow alley-like cobblestone streets and pedestrianized stretches. 

This site on the north bank of the Seine was the original site of Paris, roughly. 

In the 19th Century, Napoleon III – the nephew of the Napoleon you likely are more familiar with – reorganized the city of Paris to move from a medieval city, with narrow winding streets, to a modern city with wide open boulevards and a more orderly planning system. 

During this process, roughly 60% of the city was leveled to make way for the more modern way of doing things.

Le Marais is one of the only neighborhoods where you can still find those pockets of the medieval city in between the grand boulevards cutting though the arrondissement. 

Today, you still have places like Places des Vosges, which was created in the 17th Century and still has the same footprint as it did hundreds of years ago (plus, Victor Hugo lived on the square!). 

We will say that, generally speaking, we prefer the part of the neighborhood that is further from the river (which is the 4th Arrondissement) near Square du Temple.

As you get further from the river, it gets a bit less commercial and a bit more interesting, and the hotels offer a slightly better value.

Pros and Cons of Staying in Le Marais

Here are the pros and cons of staying in Le Marais as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in Le Marais

• It’s super central. You’ll be roughly equidistant to the Louvre and Notre Dame, and you’ll be well connected to a bunch of different metro lines that can get you to other parts of the city quickly and efficiently.
  
  
• Great food and nightlife. The narrow streets of Le Marais are packed with all sorts of bars and restaurants. You’ll find some of the best coffee in Paris – Kawa, Fragments, and I/O Cafe – along with great bars (La Candelaria) and restaurants of all shapes, sizes, and foods. Plus, the best market in Paris – Le Marché des Enfants Rouges – is in the heart of the neighborhood. You could easily spend an entire trip JUST in Le Marais.
  
  
• It feels like what Paris looks like in your mind’s eye. Or at least mine, anyway. Narrow streets lined with shops, bars, and restaurants. It’s super romantic and charming. 

Cons of Staying in Le Marais

• It can be pricey. It’s conveniently located and in high demand – and there really aren’t that many hotel choices because it has pockets that were never redeveloped in the 19th Century – which means you’re going to pay a little extra to stay here.
  
  
• It can be loud. Depending on where exactly you stay, there could be loud music and people out and about until the early hours of the morning, but honestly, it’s Paris. That’s going to be true in a lot of places, so bring some earplugs and embrace the energy. 

The Best Places to Stay in Le Marais

Here are a few places to stay in Le Marais that caught our eye. 

Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers: Our #1 Pick in Le Marais

This hotel, which is somewhere between a mid-range and boutique hotel (we’d say a little of both), is our number one choice in Le Marais, and we’ve bookmarked it for our next trip to Paris. 

Here’s why. 

The location could not be better. It’s in Le Marais, but it’s on the border of the 2nd Arrondissement, which SPOILER ALERT is the next area we’d recommend, and has quickly become our favorite part of Paris because of the sheer number of great places to eat and drink packed into the area around Rue de Montorgueil. 

The view from the rooftop looks amazing. Imagine a sunset cocktail with that view of Sacré-Cœur up on the hill. 

The hotel is designed around an interior courtyard, which is very Parisian to us. 

The rooms are designed beautifully. 

The price should probably be higher than it is (remember, we’re talking relative price here – this is the center of Paris after all).

The rooms are modern and stylish, with Nespresso machines and a mini bar in each room. Even the smallest room is relatively spacious at over 200 square feet, and the space is both well thought out and gorgeous. Some rooms also have balconies. 

Overall, if you want a stylish place to stay that is walking distance to great places to eat and drink, but you don’t want to break the bank to get it, this would be a great choice. 

Hôtel de Roubaix: The Best Value in Le Marais

As we noted above, staying in this very central part of Paris isn’t going to be the cheapest. However, we were surprised at how affordable the rates at Hôtel de Roubaix are given its location. 

Sure, it’s not the most luxurious stay. But it’s hard to think of a better price/location combination in Paris.

You’ll be a few blocks from a key metro station, Chatelet les Halles (the train station that connects you with Paris’ main airport, Charles de Gaulle), and a quick walk to the heart of Le Marais. 

All at a relatively affordable rate. 

So what’s the catch?

Well, rooms are simple, and while the words “no frills” get thrown around a lot, we think they very much apply here. Rooms are small and colorful, and almost remind us more of hostels we’ve stayed in than a hotel.

However, each room does have a private bathroom. The furniture in each room isn’t particularly stylish, but it’s functional. 

The point is, it’s hard to find a better value in Paris. If you’re willing to go light on the extra luxurious amenities that come with many hotels in Paris, this place would be an excellent home base. 

Les Tournelles: Another Great Value in Le Marais 

The whole concept at this mid-range hotel in Le Marais is bringing together the services of a hotel with the ambiance of a home, so you can feel comfortable even when you’re thousands of miles away from your real home. 

The location is great. It’s a block from Place des Vosges (an excellent park), and a 10 minute walk from both the river, and our favorite part of Le Marais and the Marché des Enfants Rouges. 

They only have a couple of room types – one double bed, two twin beds, one twin bed – which takes away the stress of making a decision between the “standard,” “comfort,” and “superior” room types. 

It’s a small hotel, with just 24 rooms, which means you’re going to get personalized service. Rooms are simple and compact, but the price reflects that. Again, if you’re willing to forgo the fuzzy slippers and bathrobes, this would make a great home base for a few days of exploring.

Sentier & Montorgueil (2nd): A Close Second

See what we did there? The 2nd Arrondissement, which is just west of Le Marais, offers many of the same benefits as our top pick here with a slightly more low key (read: less expensive) feel. 

And if we were to pack up and move to Paris tomorrow, the little slice of the 2nd near Rue Montorgueil and Arts et Metiers metro station is probably where I’d want to live. 

Since it’s adjacent to Le Marais, you still have the same great walkability and transit connections (including to the airports), and the 2nd has its own great food and drink scene to explore.

We basically walked everywhere when we were using the area as a home base. Canal St. Martin? We walked. Le Marais and the Marché des Enfants Rouges? We walked. The Louvre? Walked. The list goes on. 

The point is, this area is super central to basically everything you’ll visit during your time in Paris, though it’s not immediately adjacent to any one main attraction.

And what you can’t walk to, you’ll be able to hop on the metro (there are two main lines that serve this part of the city and connect you elsewhere – 8 and 11) and be there in less than 20-25 minutes flat.

Anywhere within a couple of blocks of Sentier or Rue Montergueil at the north eastern end of the neighborhood (which is the furthest from the Seine, but oddly the most central feeling thanks to its proximity to Le Marais and Canal St. Martin) will do just fine, though.

Plus, it feels like real Parisians actually hang out here (just walk down Rue Montorgueil and you’ll see plenty), which is something I would not say about the 1st (near the Louvre, which you will find in our “where not to stay” section below).  

In particular, we love the lively stretch of Rue Montorgueil which runs north/south through the heart of the neighborhood. 

Between the hours of 12pm and 12am, this area is buzzing with energy from people sitting on terraces gossipping and sipping flat whites (and likely smoking), people shopping at the range of boulangeries, patisseries, and fromageries, and people on their way to or from work. 

On my (Matt here!) most recent trip to Paris, I found myself making my way to the 2nd almost every day to go to a coffee shop, restaurant, wine bar, or some other place to eat or drink.

It became a daily routine to hop on the metro and get off at Chatelet. 

Pros and Cons of Staying in the 2nd Arr.

Here are the pros and cons of Staying in the 2nd as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in the 2nd Arr.

• It’s central, walkable, and well connected. It’s adjacent to Le Marais and Louvre, so you’re going to be within a short walk of most of Paris’ main attractions (including Notre Dame, Sainte Chapelle, and the Louvre). Plus, thanks to two metro lines that run straight through the neighborhood, you’re connected to other parts of Paris that are a bit far to visit on foot (like the Eiffel Tower or Arc de Triomphe, for example).
  
  
• It’s packed with bars, restaurants, and coffee shops, including the place that tops our list of best coffee shops in Paris. Rue Montorgeuil is the star of the show, but even excluding that stretch, you’ve got a great collection of places to eat and drink here in the 2nd. 
  
  
• It’s buzzing all day long! From office workers out for a long lunch (classic French people) or a coffee, to friends sipping wine on a terrace, the energy in the 2nd is great. 

Cons of Staying in the 2nd Arr.

• It’s a bit expensive. There aren’t that many hotels in the neighborhood, and it’s a central location, which means the prices are going to be relatively high. But not really any more so than other parts of central Paris, and it’s certainly cheaper than the 1st and Le Marais.
  
  
• It’s loud and boisterous. That buzzing energy has an obvious downside: it’s loud. Which can be a downside if you’re like us and you value your sleep when, on summer evenings, the party pours out in the streets and plazas. 

The Best Places to Stay in the 2nd Arrondissement

Here are a few places to stay in the 2nd Arrondissement that caught our eye. 

Le 123 Sébastopol: A Great Value Option in the 2nd

This charming hotel is owned by the same group as the place we stayed in the 9th (more on that place below), but it’s a completely different vibe. While the place we stayed was effervescent and exciting, Le 123 Sébastopol is more sophisticated and modern. 

However, many of the reasons we chose to stay at another one of their hotels apply here too. They have free non alcoholic drinks in the rooms, and free snacks and drinks in the lobby for happy hour in the afternoon. 

They have a breakfast buffet (15 Euros a person, cheaper if you book in advance) and the cavernous, glass-ceilinged room you eat in is gorgeous. 

Rooms are small, simple, and decorated around the cinema theme that you’ll find throughout the hotel. The higher room tiers have balconies, and you can also find rooms with two twin beds and family rooms (which are just two adjoined rooms). 

Overall, a solid option in a nice location. Which is pretty par for the course with Astotel. 

The Hoxton Paris: An Ultra Charming Boutique Hotel

First of all, it’s worth noting that we’re basically in love with Hoxton hotels. They’re always warm and welcoming and unbelievably stylish. And the hotel bar is always a good time. It’s not going to be the cheapest option on this list, but it’s probably the nicest – not to mention coolest – hotel in the 2nd. 

This boutique hotel sits at the border of the 9^th Arrondissement and the 2nd, putting you even closer to all the sights while enjoying a quieter setting.

This is an 18th Century residence that has been artfully transformed into one of the coolest hotels in Paris. It’s mere blocks from the northern end of Rue de Montorgueil, and a couple of blocks from the Strasbourg Saint Denis metro station, which has a few lines that will take you all over Paris. 

The design of the hotel is something like vintage-yet-modern, with a contemporary design and friendly vibe.

They have multiple onsite bars and restaurants, from the brasserie on the ground floor, to the natural wine bar in the courtyard, to the cocktail bar accessed by an old spiral staircase (could you BE any more charming??). 

When it comes to rooms, you’re going to find compact spaces that are beautiful, and designed to make the most of the space to offer you a place to rest, and not much else.

Rather than offering big, spacious rooms, they (along with other modern hotel chains) have decided to invest in inviting common spaces instead, which is where you can get some work done or do some reading. 

Choose from a range of room options, from downright tiny (“the shoebox”) to more spacious (“biggy”). The space is used well, so you won’t feel cramped. Plus, won’t you be out exploring Paris anyway?

If it’s a special occasion, book a top-floor room for a spectacular view of Paris – there’s even one with an Eiffel Tower view. 

My Maison in Paris Sentier: Nice Apartments (Where We Stayed)

Tucked away on a quiet street between Rue de Montergueil and Rue St. Denis, this apartment hotel is a gem. We generally need a kitchen when we travel thanks to Matt having Celiac Disease, so we look for places that have a full kitchen (stovetop included) as an amenity. 

Plus, the extra space that an apartment gives you versus a hotel room is nice when we spend a couple hours siesta-ing after mornings of sightseeing. 

Anyway, the point is that My Maison in Paris Sentier has everything you’ll need for a comfortable stay.

They have studios, which is what we stayed in, along with larger apartments with more space, and each unit has a kitchen, washing machine, and a comfortable bed. 

They arranged a contactless check-in with us in advance, and it was as smooth as can be. They were readily available for a question that came up. 

The apartment was stocked with all the dishes we might need (mugs, espresso cups, plates, silverware), a Nespresso machine and some pods (if you want a quick cup of coffee in the morning before heading out), and even a dishwasher, which was a big surprise. 

Plus, there’s a printer so you can print boarding passes and other important things for your onward journey, which I can honestly say is a first in an apartment. 

The Latin Quarter (5th): Our Favorite Part of the Left Bank (+ Great Value)

Of the three potential neighborhoods on the Left Bank – the more progressive southern side of the river, historically speaking, where poets, authors, and artists hung out – the Latin Quarter is by far the most down-to-earth. 

It’s clear walking around that this is a place where Parisians actually live and hang out. 

The other two neighborhoods we’d consider in this group – the 7th Arrondissement (around the Eiffel Tower) and Saint-Germain-des-Prés (the 6th) – both suffer from a similar problem: they’re expensive, and very few real Parisians actually live there as a result. Both appear in our “where not to stay section.”

This part of the city is also known as a place where students congregate, and there are multiple schools and universities in this part of the city (which, as you might imagine, gives the entire neighborhood a slight youthful tinge). 

Rue Moffetard – a pedestrianized street full of places to shop, eat, and drink – runs right through the neighborhood, and you’ll find the Pantheon (go to the viewing platform on top for an excellent view of Paris) and the Jardin du Luxembourg here. 

I (Matt) stayed here for the first half of my recent trip to Paris, and found it to be a very pleasant place to use as a home base.

The metro connections are slightly worse than those on the north side of the Seine (the Right Bank), but the prices are definitely lower, so this would be a nice place to stay if you’re looking to get a better bang-for-your-buck. 

I would recommend staying as close to the Jardin du Luxembourg and River (put a different way, in the northwestern end of the Latin Quarter) as you can, which will put you in a more walkable part of the Latin Quarter with better access to metro connections. 

Pros and Cons of Staying in the Latin Quarter

Here are the pros and cons of staying in the Latin Quarter (5th Arr.) as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in the Latin Quarter

• It’s (somewhat) walkable. If you stay in the part of the Latin Quarter closer to the Seine (basically the northwestern corner of the 5th), then you’ll be within walking distance of Notre Dame, Sainte-Chappelle, Le Marais, and the Louvre (among other things). This is a bit less true if you stay further south (though the prices also correlate with how far you are from the river, so it depends what you’re looking for). 
  
  
• It has a youthful (and local) energy. Every morning, I would walk out the front door and on the way to the metro, I would be confronted with the sights and sounds of kids of all ages frolicking on their way to school. It’s one of the places in central Paris where you’ll actually find Parisians out and about, and it seems like people actually live here. Which is something that’s relatively rare in the tourist-centric areas of Paris. 
  
  
• It’s affordable. All other things being equal, a hotel in the 5th is going to be quite a bit cheaper than, say, in Saint-Germain or the 7th (near the Eiffel Tower). And I’d argue – particularly when compared with the 7th – that the location of the 5th is slightly better. 

Cons of Staying in the Latin Quarter

• It’s a bit further out. For your purposes as a tourist, the Latin Quarter is essentially the southeastern corner of the part of Paris you’re going to be spending the most time in over the course of your trip. That means that journeys to the other side – like to the Arc de Triomphe and Montmartre – are going to take a bit of time. However, having stayed in the Latin Quarter and Montmartre, I do like that the 5th is closer to the sights along the river, which is where you’ll be spending the most time. 
  
  
• Connections south of the river are slightly worse. My only complaint after staying here was that the connections to other parts of the city are slightly worse than they are just across the river, where it seems like there’s a metro stop every 100 feet. Here, you’re probably going to be walking 10-15 minutes to the nearest metro station (unless you stay along the river), which isn’t a deal breaker, but does add potentially precious time to the journey. 

The Best Places to Stay in the Latin Quarter (5th Arr.)

Here are a few places to stay in the 5th Arrondissement that caught our eye. 

Hôtel Les Rives Oceanik: A Family-Friendly Hotel

The reason that this well-located hotel is on this list is the fact that I walked by it on my first night in Paris on my latest trip and said “hm, that looks nice, I should look that up when I get home.”

And now, a few days later (still in Paris!), here we are and it’s now my top recommendation for the 5th. 

The location is great – it’s a couple of minutes on foot to both the Pantheon and Jardin du Luxembourg – and will put you in a good location for catching a bus or the metro to other parts of Paris (including the RER B, which takes you to Charles de Gaulle Airport). 

However, I will say that you’re probably going to have to walk a bit to get to the nearest metro stations, because this is sort of a dead zone. The RER B costs the same as the metro, but only really serves Le Marais and the areas directly north, so you’ll need to transfer (or walk) to reach other lines. 

The hotel itself is really nice, and looks like upkeep has been done over the years.

It only has 29 rooms, which is nice because that means more personalized service, and the rooms come in a couple of different sizes and configurations ranging from compact doubles to bigger suites (including family suites, which have two separate rooms and two bathrooms, and would be a good choice for families traveling together). 

Select Hotel Rive Gauche: A Straightforward Mid Range Hotel

Located in a charming little pocket of the Latin Quarter just northeast of the Jardins du Luxembourg, this mid-range hotel is on a nice little plaza just off of a main stretch and is walkable to nearby metro and bus lines, and is a 10 minute walk to Notre Dame. 

In other words, the location here is great.

You have access to that RER line at Luxembourg, which will take you to the airport and Le Marais (where you can walk from there to most of the other parts of Paris you’ll be visiting, or transfer) and is within a couple of minutes of an additional metro line. 

This hotel is about as midrange as it gets. It doesn’t have the personality of, say, Oceanik above, but it certainly has nice rooms at a good value.

The selection of rooms is pretty standard, with configurations ranging from compact doubles to more spacious suites and even triple rooms. 

Basically, you’re getting a good location at a good value, which is more than you can say for plenty of other places in Paris. 

Opéra (9th): The Best Value in Paris

In our opinion as people who have stayed in the 9th Arrondissement multiple times over the past several years, we think this is the best value in Paris, and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it. 

Paris’ Opéra district extends from the Opéra Garnier in the south to the foot of Montmartre in the north, providing a fantastic location that’s well-connected to the rest of the city, especially ideal for those who plan to catch a show at the Opéra. 

We spent the first half of our recent trip in Paris in the 9th Arrondissement in, which is a budget-friendly, central location.

We found it to be the perfect home base for Paris, and realized that some of our favorite food and drinks were in the neighborhood, so Matt decided to stay here again when he came back a year later (almost to the day).

We think this is probably the best combination of location and affordability in Paris, which is why we’ve chosen to stay here on multiple recent trips.

However, while we once believed it was all about the value, as we’ve spent more time here, we’ve come to appreciate that it’s also packed full of cool places to eat and drink, especially in SoPi, which is the area immediately south of the Pigalle Metro Station (“SoPi” is an acronym for “South of Pigalle”, roughly). 

Three of our favorite affordable (gluten free) meals coming from the 9th (Aji Dulce for Venezuelan arepas, La Sajerie for Levantine wraps, and Manicaretti for home-cooked Italian lunch). 

To summarize, a good value with lots of great places to eat and drink – what’s not to love?

Pros and Cons of Staying in the 9th Arr.

Here are the pros and cons of staying in the 9th Arrondissement as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in Opéra / South Pigalle

• It’s relatively affordable. It’s still Paris – you’re still going to be spending more than 100 Euros per night, but it’s more affordable than more central neighborhoods like the 7th, Le Marais, and Saint Germain. We’d say that it’s the most affordable of Paris’ central neighborhoods (roughly the first 9 arrondissements).
  
  
• There are a bunch of great hotels AND they’re relatively affordable. This area is packed with a nice range of hotels, from chain hotels to single-location boutique hotels, and from budget hotels to luxury hotels. There are a bunch of great options here, and we’ll cover a few (including the ones we’ve stayed in) below. 

Cons of Staying in Opéra / South Pigalle

• There’s not a whole lot going on besides the Opéra. If you use this as a home base, you’ll be spending your time in other places, for the most part, and sleeping here. That’s not necessarily a terrible thing, since you’ll be saving money while you do it, but it’s worth noting. There are, however, some excellent places to eat and drink in the area, which is nice.
  
  
• It’s not as sparklingly clean as other parts of Paris. This area is “up-and-coming” (like all hip areas), which means it’s a bit more gritty than the more expensive parts of Paris. That said, it’s perfectly safe, and the rest of Paris isn’t exactly clean either. 

The Best Places to Stay in Opéra / South Pigalle

Here are a few places to stay in the 9th Arrondissement that caught our eye. 

Hotel Maison Mère: Our Favorite Hotel in Paris (Where We Stayed)

There are undoubtedly some great boutique hotels in Paris, but we think that the real star of the show is Maison Mère, which might be the best mid-range hotel in Paris.

Matt stayed there for a couple of nights on his latest trip, and loved it – the staff are super friendly, the beds are comfortable (though the rooms are relatively small, which is the case for most modern hotels), and there’s a co-working space and bar and restaurant on the ground floor. 

It’s a fantastic location, within walking distance of Gare du Nord and Montmartre, and a couple of blocks from multiple metro stations which will connect you to the broader city. 

I, Matt, really liked this hotel, and would put it at the top of your list if you’re looking for a mid-range hotel in a solid location. In fact, I’d make the argument that this should be near the top of the list for the best mid-range hotel in Paris. 

Hotel Joyce: Great Location + Incredible Value (Where We Stayed)

An excellent option for those on a budget, Hotel Joyce is a value pick.

They have a range of different room sizes that can accommodate both couples and groups, including their small but perfectly adequate standard rooms, and family rooms with adjoining rooms and separate bathrooms. 

For what it’s worth, we stayed here on one of our recent trips to Paris, and we enjoyed the central location, spacious room, and complimentary drinks and snacks (duh). 

At breakfast time, you’ll enjoy a range of pastries, including croissants and pain au chocolat. They also can cater for gluten free folks with advance notice.

In the afternoon and evening, the hotel also provides complimentary non-alcoholic beverages and light snacks.

Hotel Joke: The Same Combo of Value and Style

Hotel Joke is the sister hotel of Hotel Joyce (they’re owned by the same hospitality group), and is literally a few blocks away.

The location is the main difference between this hotel and the one above – here, you’re a few extra blocks west, which is a slightly (and we do mean slightly) worse location. 

However, we think it would still make an excellent home base for exploring Paris, since you’ll be within walking distance of Montmartre and a block and a half from a metro station.

You’ll get outstanding value and lots of bright colors that make for a cheery feel even on the greyest of days at Hotel Joke.

The rooms themselves are cozy, clean and contemporary with minifridges stocked with free drinks. 

You’ll be able to choose from a pretty wide range of room types depending on your group. You have your standard rooms – either with a double bed, or two twin beds – for couples and pairs traveling together.

Then, for groups and families, they have several different options, including the family rooms, which are two rooms joined together around a common space, each with their own bathroom. 

They have a robust breakfast buffet, and a selection of free snacks and non-alcoholic drinks for guests that are available 24 hours a day (including sparkling water!).

Le Matissia: Stylish Apartments for Longer Stays

Sometimes, hotels don’t really make sense, whether it’s because you have a big enough group where you’d need multiple rooms, or it’s a longer trip and you’d prefer a little more space (living out of a hotel room can be a little exhausting after a few nights). 

Perfect for families or groups of friends traveling together, Le Matissia offers studio, one bedroom, and two bedroom apartments which can accommodate up to 6 people. 

Each of the apartments here, which are in the same vicinity as Hotel Maison Mère above, have fully equipped kitchens including Nespresso machines, daily cleaning, and a safe. Instead of key cards, rooms are accessed via a unique code so you can check in at any time.

Luxurious touches like rainfall showers and Rituals bath amenities make it a nice stay. Le Mattisia is in a prime location with Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est only a few minutes walk away.

It is a short metro ride into the center of Paris to visit all the attractions, or if you prefer to explore on foot it is a nice long stroll. 

Montmartre (18th): The Most Romantic Part of Paris

On my last trip to Paris, I decided to split my time between two parts of the city that I had visited multiple times, but had never stayed in. The first of those two that appears on this list is Montmartre. 

Montmartre, until the 19th century, was actually a completely separate town (though, it was adjacent to the borders of Paris). It was a small village on the hill with some shadier parts, some green open spaces, and a bunch of windmills that were used to grind flour for the population of the city. 

In the mid-to-late 19th century, it was famous for the soirees that were thrown on weekends, when wealthy Parisians would escape the city and amble up the hill to drink and dance in the gardens that provided a much-needed escape from the urban environment a few blocks away. 

If you go to the Musée d’Orsay (and you should!) and learn about impressionism, you’ll see multiple depictions of this phenomenon, most famously Renoir’s Bal du moulin de la Galette.

It has also gained the reputation for being the home of the artists in Paris, with Vincent Van Gogh, Renoir, many other artists in the impressionist movement, and even Pablo Picasso having lived in Montmartre for some period of time in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 

Similar to Le Marais, Montmartre escaped the redevelopment projects that came with Napoleon III (again, not THAT Napoleon, but his nephew) that leveled huge swaths of the city to modernize it and turn it into the city you see today, with grand boulevards and wide open spaces (rather than narrow cobblestone streets). 

Mostly, that’s because it was outside the boundaries of the city at that time.  

The result is an uber charming neighborhood full of cobblestones, narrow winding streets, and excellent views out over Paris (which only get better the further up the hill you venture). 

It’s charming. It’s romantic (especially before or after the bulk of the tourists arrive or leave). And it’s easy to see why it has become a staple of many itineraries. 

However, all that charm comes with a couple of downsides. 

The first is the number of tourists, which seems to have grown exponentially over the past several years.

By staying here, though, you’ll have the added benefit of being able to easily step outside your front door and go for an evening stroll once they’ve all left for the day. 

The second is the location, which is certainly not the most convenient of the potential neighborhoods in this guide.

You basically won’t be walking distance to any of Paris’ major tourist attractions, though there are a few bus and metro lines that run along the boulevards at the base of the hill (which you should use early and often).

Pros and Cons of Staying in Montmartre

Here are the pros and cons of staying in Montmartre, at least as we see them. 

Pros of Staying in Montmartre

• It has all of the charm of a small village. Seriously. All of it. Cobblestone streets. A great cafe culture, with Parisians and tourists alike sitting on the patios that line the streets. Leafy greenery. All of the charm.
  
  
• Sacré-Cœur. Our pick for the best church in Paris (though when it’s open, Notre Dame Cathedral is pretty spectacular too), Sacré-Cœur is perched on a hill, which means incredible views over the city. Sunset here is a must-do!
  
  
• It’s a surprisingly good place to eat and drink. For a neighborhood inundated by tourists, there are still quite a few places to eat and drink that are worthwhile stops. Clove is one of my favorite coffee shops. Pain Pain gets good reviews (and had a line out the door when I walked by multiple times). I found a nice fromagerie and cave a vin just wandering around. 
  
  
• There are a lot of hotels, and they’re relatively affordable. Surprisingly, there are a bunch of hotels in the neighborhood, and they tend to be relatively affordable compared to some more central options. 

Cons of Staying in Montmartre

• It’s not super convenient for getting to other parts of the city. This is easily the biggest downside of staying here. You have easy access to metro lines 2 and 4 with a 10 minute walk, but even so, getting to the most popular attractions in Paris from Montmartre can be a bit of a journey (30-40 minutes, depending on where you’re going). And if, for some crazy reason, you don’t want to take public transit, plan on hitting traffic and it taking longer. 

The Best Places to Stay in Montmartre

Here are a few places to stay in Montmartre that caught our eye. 

Terrass Hotel: A Beautiful Boutique Hotel in Montmartre (Where We Stayed)

This beautiful hotel is on the list because we walked by it as we were wandering down Rue des Abbesses in Montmartre, and I said “I bet that place is nice.”

Fast-forward a couple of years and I, Matt, stayed here for a few nights on a solo trip to Paris, and it was magical. I splurged on one of their Eiffel Tower rooms and had a beautiful view out over Paris with the Eiffel Tower in the distance. 

The room itself was also very spacious, had a comfortable bed that I slept like a baby in, and a nice shower.

It’s right on a busy corner at the western end of the best street in Montmartre (Rue des Abbesses), and while the location is a bit of a walk from the top of the hill (and Sacré-Cœur), it’s walkable to a bunch of great bars and restaurants. 

Even if you don’t end up with an Eiffel Tower room, one of the best parts about staying here is probably the rooftop bar up on the 7th floor, which has views out over Paris (including the Eiffel Tower). It’s definitely worth stopping by for a drink even if you don’t stay here. 

The hotel has been a staple in the neighborhood since 1911, when it first opened, and it is still owned by the same family. Rooms take inspiration from the artists who have called the neighborhood home for centuries, with nice touches like director’s chairs and travel trunk storage. 

They also have rooms with a view of the Eiffel Tower, but you’ll need to be prepared to pay a little extra. Some rooms have walk-in showers and/or bathtubs, if that’s something you’re looking for. 

Hôtel des Arts Montmartre: A Great Value in a Great Location

First of all, I like that this is a family-owned hotel in a city full of chain hotels. The hotel was first opened in 1901, but the current family took over in the 1960’s, and has run it ever since. 

The location here is great, just a block off of Rue des Abbesses, a few blocks to the metro, and a few blocks to the hill that will take you up to the cathedral. 

Rooms here are practical and well thought out, with USB charging and fun Marshall speakers (I’m not quite sure if they’re actually functional or not, though). Choose from either double bed or two twins, and various room arrangements from relatively small to larger, with more seating area.

At the higher end, you’ll find rooms with a balcony or terrace that has a view out over Paris’ rooftops, including the Eiffel Tower in some cases. 

They do have a breakfast buffet too, but our general preference is to eat breakfast out (even if it’s just a quick coffee and pastry), especially since it costs 19 Euros. 

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