What to Do on Lopez Island: A Complete Guide for First Timers
The San Juan Islands are one of the more unique places in the Pacific Northwest, if not the entire country. There are only a few places in the world that we can think of where a series of islands are connected by ferries loaded up with cars that serve as an extension of the highway system (one of them being just north in British Columbia).
I have been to both San Juan Island and Orcas Island before – with multiple trips to San Juan Island throughout my many years of growing up in Washington State – but Lopez was a new one for both of us when we embarked on a midweek summer adventure.
On our first morning on Lopez Island, we pulled out of Odlin Campground and onto Ferry Road. Immediately, Alysha noticed the fact that the drivers we passed who were going the opposite way were either a) flipping us off or b) waving at us.
Turns out, it was waving.
And it wasn’t just one driver. It was nearly every single driver that we passed.
Now, look, I’m a friendly driver. But waving to every single car that passes? I’m not that friendly. Nor have I ever been to a place where that is a common custom.
But I guess that’s a snapshot of Lopez Island for you.
It’s the third of the San Juan Islands in terms of visitors (San Juan and Orcas being the top two by far), and it has seen fewer of the negative impacts of tourism that places like Friday Harbor and Eastsound have seen.
That’s not to say that there are no tourists, or that there are no downsides to tourism on Lopez.
According to a person at the Lopez Island Historical Society (more on that in the guide below), nearly half of the housing on Lopez is for either second homes or vacation rentals.
The point here is that Lopez Island is a lovely place to spend a few days, and you’ll quickly find that life just moves at a different pace when you’re on an island.
In this guide, we’re going to go through our favorite discoveries on Lopez Island.
We’ll cover some lovely coastal hikes, some cool places to eat and drink (though there aren’t many on the island), and more.
The intention here is that you’ll have a good starting place for planning your own trip to Lopez, and that you’ll discover a couple of new things as you go through this guide.
Sound good to you? Let’s get into it.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we don’t stand behind 100%.
Our Favorite Things to Do on Lopez Island
Here are some of our favorite things to do, see, eat, and drink on Lopez Island in no particular order.
Get Out on the Water in a Kayak
After meeting a guide kayaking on Milford Sound in New Zealand who remarked that the San Juan Islands are his favorite kayaking destination in the world, we made a mental note to make sure to get out on a kayak next time we found ourselves in the San Juans.
Fast forward about three years and we made it out on sea kayaks on the western end of San Juan Island (with a guide – that side of the island is not something you want to do without a guide) and had an absolute blast.
While we haven’t been out in kayaks on Lopez – we had Lupine (our dog) with us on this latest trip, which means kayaking isn’t really an option – it is absolutely something we’d recommend based on our experiences elsewhere in the San Juan Islands.
However, we should note here that you need to be careful around the south end of the island, where multiple currents converge and it can get gnarly. It’s not a place that you’ll want to be if you’re a beginner.
Paddling out on the open water is dangerous in this part of the world, especially when you’re new to the area and unfamiliar with the tidal patterns and geography.
However, there are three great options for more approachable kayaking around the northern side of Lopez, and one of them has onsite kayak rentals.
The first place is Odlin County Park on the northwest side of the island, which features a nice protected bay where we saw multiple groups of kayakers (pictured above with the nice sunset) heading out to explore the coast of the island.
The downside here is that you cannot rent kayaks on site, you have to bring them with you (either rent in Lopez Village or bring your own).
The second place is Spencer Spit State Park on the northeast side of the island, and they do rent kayaks on site here, so it’s a great option if you don’t have the ability or interest to cart your own (or a rental) out here.
From Spencer Spit, you can spend a few hours circumnavigating Frost Island (the island at the tip of the spit) and exploring the calm, protected bay.
The last place is Fisherman Bay on the western side of the island, where Lopez Kayaks has their rental location set up.
This is a big protected bay, and they have all sorts of ideas on what routes to do based on your own experience levels.
If you’re a beginner and just looking to get out for a few hours for an easy paddle, stick to the bay.
If you’re more experienced and looking to go further, you can explore Canoe Island or Shaw Island for a nice longer day or even an overnight trip.
Hike to Iceberg Point
Of the trio of three main hikes that you’ll find on the island (we’re about to cover all three in a row, don’t you worry), the hike out to Iceberg Point at the southwest tip of Lopez was our favorite.
It’s a relatively easy three mile lollipop, and it’s essentially flat (with some slight uphill and downhill sections throughout).
It brings you through some excellent coastal prairie – the main ecosystem you find around the island – and the loop part of the hike is a tour-de-force in terms of water views (including across to the Olympic Range and the southern part of San Juan Island).
You’ll start at Agate Beach Park, which has space for 10-15 cars and a bathroom, and then follow the road south, connecting with a forested trail that brings you to the interesting part: the loop portion of the hike.
You can go either way – it’s flat, so there’s no real difference – but the star of this show is the part of the hike that hugs the coast.
Eventually you’ll climb a small hill where there’s a marker for the Treaty of 1908, which established the boundaries between the US and Canada (and thus cemented Lopez’s place as a part of the United States).
Watamough Bay, Point Colville, and Chadwick Hill
Down at the southeastern corner of the island, you’ll find a trio of can’t-miss things to do that, taken together, are a recipe for an excellent half day excursion on Lopez Island.
The centerpoint here is the pristine Watamough Bay.
The (extremely well) protected bay was exceedingly calm when we were there on a sunny morning, so much so that you could almost get a perfect reflection of the sailboats anchored there (which is unusual for water subject to currents and boat traffic).
If you’re looking for a nice protected place to swim, this is it!
Alternatively, if you’d prefer a hike, there are two great options nearby.
First is the coastal lollipop out to Point Colville, which is an excellent example of the coastal prairies and rocky islands that make this part of the world picturesque.
It’s a three mile hike with moderate elevation gain (500 feet), but it should be doable for most hikers (provided there are no mobility restrictions).
Second is the hike up to Chadwick Hill, which technically starts from up the road that you came in on, and is a nice forested loop that ends on top of the hill with a good view out to the east.
You can get there from the parking lot at Watamough Bay, but you should know that it’s a pretty rough trail from the parking lot (it’s straight uphill, and it’s a lot of roots and rocks) and you end up walking ¾ of a mile along the road to get back to your car (it’s not a high-traffic road, but it’s still a road).
However, the parking area at the actual trailhead has exactly two spots that are barely off the road, so it’s not easy to access the hike from there either.
Given the choice, we’d do Point Colville because it’s more emblematic of what makes Lopez Island special, but we did both and enjoyed them.
Explore “Downtown” Lopez
We used quotes here because downtown Lopez Island, known as Lopez Village, is barely a downtown.
There are two small grocery stores, a handful of restaurants / eateries, a couple of places to shop (a bookstore and an art gallery, mostly), and the Lopez Island Historical Society.
You can cover it in about 20 minutes, tops.
That being said, this is where you’re going to find the best places to eat, drink, and shop on Lopez Island. Mostly because they’re the only places to eat, drink and shop on Lopez Island.
Here are a few places not to miss in Lopez Village.
Isabel’s Espresso: For us, the best coffee on the island (there are only a couple of coffee shops, the other main option being across the road from Isabel’s). Friendly staff and a good cortado, plus some fun seasonal drinks if you like your caffeine flavored.
El Taco ’Bout It: A taco truck with a perpetual line for lunch. Lunch only, Friday through Sunday.
APIZZAPIE: Wood-fired pizza out of a food truck. Good thing it never gets that hot on Lopez, because that sounds miserable on a hot day. They have gluten free crusts, but are transparent about the fact that they absolutely use shared equipment (because it’s a truck with limited space).
Lopez Island Historical Society: More on this below, but they have some cool photography on the outside of the building that tells a story about Lopez Island’s history.
Lopez Creamery: Ice cream right in the heart of Lopez Village with HUGE portions. They’ve been around since the 80’s, though they outgrew any possible facility on Lopez and now make their ice cream on the mainland in Anacortes. The scoop shop is open Thursday to Sunday only.
It’s also worth visiting the farmers market in Lopez Village, which takes place on Saturdays from 10am to 2pm from mid-May through September.
Devour Pastries from Barn Owl Bakery
First of all, this bakery is absolutely not gluten free. But Alysha HAD to try it. You know, for science. Their bakery is located in a barn in the center of the island, across the road from Hummel Lake, and it’s more of a farm stand than a full storefront.
In addition to being a great bakery, it’s also emblematic of what makes Lopez special. Their bakery farmstand basically operates on an honor system.
There’s no cashier, so you basically collect your goods inside and then go pay out front (the cash box is just sitting out on a table). They do take credit cards, but with an upcharge.
Alysha had a blueberry tart (“it wasn’t too sweet – the blueberries were the sweetest part!”) and grabbed a delicious Sicilian flatbread covered in seasonal veggies for lunch later that day.
They are closed Sunday through Wednesday, so make sure to plan your visit around that.
They also have a stand at the Lopez Island Farmers Market, which is on Saturday mornings in Lopez Village.
Enjoy the Noodles at Setsunai
For many trips, one of the sources I use to gather information and find some new things to do is Reddit. I did the same for Lopez, and one of the first threads that I came across had a very specific recommendation.
I was looking for things like “do XX hike” or “don’t miss YY beach,” but instead one of the top rated comments said “the noodles at Setsunai.” The replies all said some version of “came here to say this.”
If that many people’s favorite thing on Lopez was this noodle bar, it was something that we (read: Alysha) would have to try. You know, for science (lots of science going on here!).
We stopped by for lunch on a weekday, and it wasn’t too busy. However, they don’t take reservations, so be prepared to wait during peak hours (weekends in the summer, mostly).
We got a nice table overlooking the bay out front, which is a lovely backdrop for enjoying some noodles.
They source much of what they serve from farms on the island and from other farms in western Washington (though, given the type of food, they obviously source things from elsewhere too).
It’s a welcome addition to Lopez’s restaurant scene, which has a lot of historic pubs and farm-to-table restaurants.
The star of the show here – even for Alysha, who actually got to eat the food – was the plum shrub. Maybe it was the fact that we had done a couple of hikes earlier that day, but it was
SO refreshing.
It’s on the road that skirts Fisherman Bay on the western side of Lopez, about seven minutes from Lopez Village.
Dive into the Island’s History
While it’s a small space, I really enjoyed the Lopez Island History Museum right in the heart of Lopez Village. You walk in and it’s essentially one room, but it’s full of displays and photographs from Lopez’s history.
One of my favorite things to do in Portland is to check out the Oregon Historical Society – which has an excellent exhibit on the history of Oregon (with copies of the original documents they’re talking about) – and I’ve really come to value the act of archiving and displaying artifacts around the history of a specific place.
This museum tells the story of Lopez from its time as the home of the Straits Salish people through present day, including how things changed when European settlers arrived in the northwest corner of the United States.
There are also exhibits on the flora and fauna found on the island, some cool maps, and tons of historical photographs depicting life on Lopez Island over the years.
It costs $5 to check out, and I think it’s well worth it.
However, even if you decide the $5 isn’t worth it, I’d still head over and take a look at the archival photographs on the outside of the building, which depict events from Lopez’s history.
Head Out to Spencer Spit
We made a last minute call to extend our stay on Lopez, and ended up booking another night of camping at Spencer Spit State Park, which is on the northeast corner of the island.
We didn’t enjoy camping there quite as much as Odlin, but it is an interesting historical time capsule that tells you about Washington’s history.
Spencer Spit, like many state parks in Washington, was basically a rich family’s estate that they claimed as a homestead in the 1870s until the state acquired it in the 1960s and made it a state park.
It’s actually named after the second family that lived here.
Today, there’s a replica of the guest cabin that they built out on the spit, and the stone cellar of the main house, which sat on the hill above the spit, is still there.
The cool part about Spencer Spit is the fact that, in the middle of the triangular spit, you’ll find a saltwater lagoon that has been formed and is an excellent area for birdwatching.
You can see migratory birds here, like herons, and it’s particularly good in the winter.
Speaking of birds, we actually saw an owl in a tree above our campsite during the daytime, which seems pretty rare.
Since this is a state park, it’s covered by a Discover Pass (Washington’s state parks pass). You can also buy a $10 day pass on arrival.
Catch a Sunset (at Odlin County Park)
We spent the majority of our time on Lopez Island camping at Odlin County Park, which is on the northwest side of the island near the ferry terminal on Lopez.
The park is basically split into two sections; a forested area and a wide open beach area (which is where the day use area is – day use is free, too!).
We were treated to two excellent sunsets here, including the best sunset we’ve seen in a while on our very first night on the island (basically right when we arrived on the island).
There are two good places to watch the sunset here.
First is the beach, which is pretty obvious. There’s a few picnic tables, a bunch of driftwood to sit on, and the view straight out to the west is great.
Second is from the short trail that leaves the campground and heads south along the coast past the hiker/biker campsites.
It ends at a nice bench with a view out to the southwest.
Oh, and it’s also worth noting that we got extremely lucky and saw seals, otters, AND orca whales from our campsite (!!).
The whales were far away – past the point out on the bay – but we saw dorsal fins and blowholes (and were only tipped off to them by the 5-7 big boats following them).
Spot the Wildlife at Shark Reef Sanctuary
Shark Reef Sanctuary – which, sadly, has little to do with sharks – is a little park on the western shore of Lopez Island. It is, however, an excellent place to see harbor seals and, if you’re extremely lucky, whales.
At the end of a 10 minute walk on a boardwalk you’ll emerge out onto a bluff overlooking the (relatively) narrow strait between the southeastern corner of San Juan Island and Lopez Island.
In the foreground, you have a couple of small rocky islands where you’re sure to find harbor seals lounging on the rocks.
We were amused at Lupine’s (our dog) reaction to the noises they were making, especially when the seals would get feisty and have little scuffles with one another. Lots of cocking her head and listening intently.
Part of the reason, though, that this place is well worth your time is the backdrop in the distance.
You have the southeastern corner of San Juan Island (and the Cattle Point Lighthouse) in the middle distance, and further south you have the Olympic Range rising above the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
This would be another good option for a sunset outing because you’re looking directly west across the southern edge of San Juan Island.
Getting to Lopez Island
This section is important, because the ferry system is an obvious bottleneck when it comes to getting out to the San Juan Islands, and the ferries absolutely fill up during the summer months.
Here are the basics you need to know about the ferry system to get to and from the San Juan Islands.
To get to Lopez Island from the mainland, you have to take a ferry from the Anacortes Ferry Terminal, which is two hours (84 miles) northwest of Seattle (here on Google Maps).
It’s a scenic 45 minute ferry ride, and you can bring your car on the ferry.
We’d recommend making reservations for the ferry from Anacortes if you’re traveling between Memorial Day and Labor Day, which can be made in advance here.
It’s also worth noting that this reservation is simply to save you a spot on the ferry and give you priority boarding over the first-come-first-serve people, you’ll still have to pay a roundtrip fee at the toll booth (you can find updated rates here to calculate the cost).
The reservation is not free – it is a refundable fee of $13 that is a “no-show” fee.
If you make a reservation and do not cancel it before the day of your trip, you will pay the no-show fee. If you cancel the reservation outside of that window, it’s fully refundable.
If you take the trip as planned, you don’t get charged the no-show fee.
You need to be through the toll booth at least 30 minutes before the ferry departure time, which means you should show up 45-60 minutes early. Yes, even if you have a reservation.
This is a super popular ferry route, and there’s only one way to get to the island.
Taking the ferry is not cheap (see prices here) but it’s worth noting that this cost covers you roundtrip.
As long as you’re traveling west to east (i.e. San Juan Island to Orcas Island, or San Juan Island to Anacortes), it will be free.
Let’s talk about when to book your ferry crossing.
Reservations are released in thirds; one third two months before the trip, one third two weeks before the trip, and one third two days before the trip. All reservations are released at 7am PST.
Coming back from Lopez to Anacortes is free, BUT the lines can be LONG, particularly on Sunday afternoons and Monday mornings.
We found this guide to ferry capacity by sailing useful, and you can see that there are a couple of sailings a day that are exclusively Lopez to Anacortes (versus stopping at Lopez on the way from Friday Harbor or Orcas) that have significantly higher capacity.
If you aren’t able to get reservations, don’t panic.
First, check back two days before your trip at 7am, when more slots are released.
Second, try traveling standby, which means you need to show up extra early (60-90 minutes in advance).
Third, try traveling on either the first or last ferry of the day, which are generally the least crowded.