Where to Stay in Rome: A Complete Guide for First Timers
Wondering where to stay in Rome? We have some good news for you – you’re in the right place! We’ve spent a total of two weeks in Rome over the past couple of years, and Alysha lived in Rome for six months when we were younger.
We love Rome – the history and culture, the food, the energy – and we’re here to help you figure out where to stay to make your trip an unforgettable one.
There aren’t a whole lot of places in the world where you can walk by a column that was completed in 113 A.D on your way to a massive amphitheater that was built more than a millennium ago.
The preserved history that exists in Rome is one reason why the Eternal City is consistently in the top 10 most visited cities in the world.
Every time we’re in Rome (and the rest of Italy, really), we’re reminded just how young the cities we’ve called home really are (Seattle, San Francisco, and now Portland, Oregon).
Despite each having visited Rome multiple times before, there’s something about it that is always drawing us back in.
Part of it is the novelty of just how old some of the things in Rome are, which consistently makes our jaws drop as we marvel at the accomplishments of a group of people who built things without the technological power we have today.
But there’s something beyond that. Rome is romantic. The people are warm. And, arguably most importantly in our book, the food is simple and delicious. Which is why we decided to spend a full 10 days in Rome last year.
Alysha lived in Rome for six months, and Matt loved his first trip to Rome so much (nearly a decade ago now, we’re getting old!) he made the return trip just two years later.
Then, a couple of years ago, we spent a full 10 days in Rome to dive a little deeper into the city (and we have another weeklong stay planned this year!).
In 2024, I (Matt here) made a triumphant return to Rome, my fifth time in the Eternal City, for a nice springtime trip full of gluten free pizza and pasta. I was there at the end of April and it was BUSY, so it’s important to book your place to stay well in advance.
I made some wholesale changes to this guide based on that more recent experience, doing my best to streamline it and give you all the information you need to figure out where to stay in Rome for your particular style and budget.
Between us, we’re certainly not locals, but we have a solid working knowledge of Rome beyond a typical tourist who has been once for a couple of days.
We’re here to help you learn from our decisions so that you can skip staying somewhere mediocre (like Matt did on his first trip) and find an amazing place to stay in Rome.
In this guide to the best places to stay in Rome, we’re going to cover five excellent areas to stay that would make a good home base for your trip to the Eternal City.
We’ll give you our experience with the neighborhood, a list of pros and cons of staying in each area, our favorite discoveries in the area (think coffee shops, bars, and parks), and some cool places to stay.
Our intention is that, by the end of it all, you’ll have the information you need to choose the perfect place to stay in Rome based on your particular style, budget, and preferences.
Sound good to you? Let’s get into it.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we don’t stand behind 100%.
Where to Stay in Rome: A Detailed Guide to the Best Places to Stay
Our philosophy when it comes to deciding on a place to stay is to first choose the neighborhood, then move on to finding a great hotel, hostel, or apartment in that area.
The beauty of Rome, like most big cities, is that each neighborhood has a unique personality. The best neighborhood in Rome for you totally depends on what you’re looking for.
The downside of that fact is that it can be REALLY confusing when it comes time to decide on where to stay.
With so many great neighborhood options, each with their own quirks and unique charm, which area should you choose?
It seems impossible to do, but we’ve narrowed down the list of the best places to stay in Rome to just four neighborhoods.
When it comes to choosing a place to stay in Rome, there are an astounding number of possible neighborhoods you COULD stay in.
In the guide below, you’re going to find the four that we think you SHOULD stay in, depending on what you value.
Rather than take a shallow look at every neighborhood in Rome, we’re going to go deep on the four we think are best for 99% of people visiting the Eternal City.
Now, we’re well aware that a few of you are currently ready to throw your left shoe at the screen, saying “I don’t have time to read all of that, JUST TELL ME THE BEST PLACE TO STAY!”
Well, here’s a quick summary of this guide if you’re short on time (though we’d recommend reading the section of the place you end up staying for tips and places to add to your list!).
- Our overall recommendation is to find a charming hotel or guesthouse in Trastevere, which is far and away our favorite part of Rome. Cobblestone streets, energetic piazzas, and some of the best bars and restaurants in Rome? Sign us up! For what it’s worth, we recently stayed at Horti 14, a beautiful hotel in a quiet part of Trastevere that’s walkable to the Vatican and the Centro Storico, and loved it.
- If it’s your first time in Rome, you can’t go wrong with the Centro Storico. Stay at Casa Pietra or Coronari Palace if you’re looking for a charming guesthouse with helpful, friendly staff and a great location. If you’re looking for an apartment with more space and a kitchen, check out these apartments near Piazza Navona, where we spent five days on our latest trip.
- If you’re looking for a slightly different experience, look at Monti, a hip part of Rome that’s near the Colosseum and Forum, and is packed full of bars, restaurants, cafes, and more. Matt stayed here on his last trip to Rome, and found it to be a pretty perfect location to use as a home base. It’s a good central location, and generally feels much younger than, say, the Centro Storico. Salotto Monti is a great combination of stylish and affordable (it’s also where Matt stayed).
- If you’re traveling with family or are looking for something a little more quiet and low-key, consider Prati. It’s a good location right next to Vatican City that’s walkable to both Trastevere and the Centro Storico, and it’s more residential (especially as you get further from the Vatican). Also worth noting, Alysha lived here for six months in college. If we were you, we’d stay at the charming Hotel Rovere, which is a great location (though it’s outside of Prati’s main center).
Here’s a map to help you visualize what we’re talking about in this guide.
We’ve given you the five areas we’re recommending below, along with the main landmarks in Rome (e.g. the Colosseum, the Vatican, Termini Station, etc) with yellow pins so that you can see what we’re talking about when we mention things about location.
Pro-tip: If you want to open the map in a bigger window, hit the “expand” button in the top right corner.
Where We’ve Stayed in Rome
Our own personal experience might be a good place to start this guide.
As a reminder, we’ve been to Rome several times over the past couple of years, including a 10 day trip in 2021 and a shorter trip in the spring of 2024. Over those trips, we’ve stayed in three places that we think are worth your time and consideration.
We spent a full five days staying on the southern end of the Centro Storico, near Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori, and it was a fantastic place to base ourselves for our reintroduction to Rome (also, if it’s your first time, this is where you should stay).
Salotto Monti: A Mid-Range Hotel in a GREAT Location
On my latest trip to Rome (Matt here – I was in Rome in April of 2024 on a solo trip), I decided to use the charming neighborhood of Monti, which is sandwiched between the Colosseum, Centro Storico, and Termini (more on Monti in the specific neighborhood section below).
Salotto Monti is a hotel on the third floor of a nondescript office (ish) building right on Via Nazionale, across the street from the heart of Monti, so it’s a bit removed from the action, but within a five minutes walk of it. Which is exactly where we like to be (we value our sleep).
From the hotel, you’re a 10-15 minute walk from… almost everything. You can walk to the Colosseum and Roman Forum, Piazza Venezia, Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, and Termini Station.
And the buses that run down Via Nazionale right in front of the hotel will whisk you off to wherever else you need to go (there’s also a metro stop within a 10 minute walk of the front door).
The hotel basically takes up most of one floor in the building, and they’ve expanded to include some of the apartments on the lower floors, which is where I stayed. I was traveling solo and was planning on doing some writing during the course of my trip, so a room with a bit more space is always a plus for me.
The best part is probably the rooftop terrace, which overlooks the beautiful Banca d’Italia building across the street, where you can have breakfast in the morning (it does cost extra, though). I also just hung out on the terrace a couple of times during my trip because it’s a lovely, sunny patio.
Overall, given the excellent location in the very middle of just about everything you’re going to want to see in Rome, I think this is a great choice. And, to be honest, the prices weren’t as high as I was expecting for their standard hotel rooms.
Horti 14 Borgo: A Beautiful Modern Hotel in Trastevere
I had this boutique hotel bookmarked for my next trip to Rome for YEARS before we decided to stay here for the tail end of our last trip to Rome.
My expectations were high – it gets stellar reviews, it looks beautiful, and it’s in one of my favorite parts of the city – and I would say that it lived up to the expectations I had, if not exceeded them.
It’s on the northern edge of Trastevere, about a 10 minute walk outside of the center of the neighborhood.
At first, I saw that as a negative, but then I realized that, given the nightlife scene in Trastevere and the fact that we need our sleep or we’re grumpy messes, the quiet location is actually nice.
It’s a small hotel with just 17 beautifully furnished rooms with modern touches and floor-to-ceiling windows that bring in plenty of natural light. They also have a terrace on the top floor, where you can enjoy breakfast in the morning or aperitivo in the afternoon.
We grabbed a bottle of cider – yes, cider – from a beer and wine shop in Trastevere (Les Vignerons) and enjoyed a nice sunset on the rooftop patio.
Another surprise, at least to us, was the incredible spread for breakfast, which is included in the room rate.
I have Celiac Disease, and there were plenty of options for me, but Alysha was the real winner here. Pastries, fruit, toast and jams, cheese and cold cuts – you name it, they probably have it. Plus, made-to-order coffee. What a nice way to start the day.
It’s a little more expensive than most of the places we tend to stay, but given the breakfast, the location, and the ambiance, we’d say it’s worth the splurge if you can afford it.
Rome As You Feel – Grotta Pinta: Apartments in the Perfect Location
We were looking for an apartment in the Centro Storico for a part of our latest trip to Rome, and we could not have been happier with the location, amenities, and basically everything else about the Grotta Pinta Apartments.
The apartments are tucked away in an old building with a slow elevator (classic) on a quiet street within walking distance of the entire Centro Storico, but Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori in particular are literally a few blocks away.
Around the corner are Fatamorgana, one of our favorite gelato shops in Rome, and Antico Forno Roscioli, which is basically a must-visit place for foodies in Rome.
The apartments are surprisingly spacious, and they have a range of layouts that can accommodate between one and six people.
The kitchen, which is part of the reason we look for apartments when we travel, was perfect, and the view from the windows over the rooftops of Rome was a very pleasant thing to look at as I made my morning coffee.
If you’re interested in an apartment in the center of Rome, we’d recommend looking at these.
While you’re in Rome, you’re probably going to want to see some of the main sights, like the Colosseum and Vatican.
Don’t miss the best tours in Rome with Walks of Italy. They’re experts in all things Rome. From their early morning tours of the Vatican, to the after hours Colosseum tour, they are hands down the best tours in Rome.
We have personally done this tour of the Colosseum with them, and it was incredibly informative – our guide was an expert, and dispelled some of the common myths about the structure and what it was built for as we moved through it.
If you’re going to do a tour in Rome, do it with Walks of Italy.
We’ve now done at least four tours with them over our travels the past few years – you can read about our experience on their Colosseum Tour in Rome here.
Trastevere: Our #1 Recommendation for Just About Everyone
Trastevere is hands down our number one recommendation for the best area to stay in Rome. In fact, we’ve literally stayed in Trastevere every single time we’ve been to Rome.
To us, it feels like one the most authentic areas of Rome – with winding cobblestone streets opening up onto vibrant piazzas filled with markets and locals going about their day.
Sure, there are definitely tourists (I mean, it’s Rome), but it’s far less tourist-centric than an area like the Centro Storico or Monti.
The neighborhood is about a 30 minute walk to all of the main attractions, and less on the metro system, so the location is plenty convenient for exploring the main sights of Rome.
However the neighborhood is an attraction in itself with little shops and markets and beautiful churches that you will have seemingly all to yourself. It’s just far enough off of the beaten path to avoid the throngs of tourists (although it is certainly getting more busy by the day).
Here you will be among the locals as they go by their daily lives. Which makes it the best place to stay in Rome if you really want to immerse yourself in the true culture and lifestyle of the Eternal City.
Personally, this is our favorite neighborhood in Rome, and it offers a little bit of everything.
Pros and Cons of Staying in Trastevere
Pros of Staying in Trastevere
- All of the charm. Cobblestone streets. Greenery. Bars and restaurants with people spilling out into the streets after dark. Trastevere is as charming as it gets, in our opinion.
- Great nightlife. Trastevere is great during the day, but it really comes alive when the sun goes down and people settle into the numerous terraces and piazzas for dinner and drinks, which can last until the early morning hours.
Cons of Staying in Trastevere
- It’s not particularly central. While you’ll be able to walk to the Centro Storico (particularly the southern end, around Piazza Navona), it’s not walkable to much of the northeastern side of the city (think Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese).
- There’s no easy connection from Termini (Rome’s main train station). It’s just not that easy to get there from Termini – we had to take a taxi.
Trastevere Highlights
Here are some places in Trastevere that we love, and think you probably will too.
Freni e Frizoni: The staff at Horti 14 suggested this place to us when we asked where to go for an afternoon drink, as did Alysha’s friend who used to live in Rome. The aperitivo buffet is a thing of the past, but it’s still a nice place to go for an afternoon drink before dinner. It’s a little more expensive, but that’s because their cocktails are legitimately good and interesting.
Les Vignerons: A cozy little beer and wine shop on a side street in Trastevere. Great selection and friendly staff. They even have a bunch of Italian cider, which was a lovely surprise for us (we LOVE cider).
Enoteca L’antidoto: A tiny little natural wine bar / bistro in Trastevere.
Belvedere del Gianicolo: I’m not sure if this viewpoint up above the neighborhood technically counts as Trastevere, but we’re going to include it. It’s a lovely walk to do in the morning or around sunset, and it ends at a viewpoint with an incredible view out over Rome with all of its towers and churches. Here’s an excellent walking route up to the viewpoint, which includes an interesting history lesson on Italian independence along the way.
When the sun went down on my first day in Rome almost a decade ago (I’m getting old!) I found myself wandering the narrow streets near Piazza Navona in Rome’s Historic Center during blue hour, that glorious period just after sunset where it’s almost dark, but not completely.
As I followed the sometimes narrow streets in this part of the city, the streetlights started to come on, and the first thing I noticed was that they are designed to look like torches, invoking the feeling that you’re experiencing the Eternal City in the heyday of Ancient Rome.
A soft golden light washes over the streets of the Centro Storico, transporting you thousands of years into the past. It’s SUPER romantic.
Not in a “let’s kiss under the mistletoe” way, more in the sense that you’ll feel immersed in the rich history and culture that Rome has cultivated over the course of many, many years.
Until, of course, a drunk tourist stumbles out of a bar on Campo de’ Fiori and ruins your vibe, which is a distinct possibility, unfortunately.
Still, if you’re looking to be immersed in that Rome feeling, then this is the place for you.
Previous iterations of this guide combined the area around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon with the area around Piazza di Spagna and Trevi Fountain, but after this latest stint in Rome I decided that these two areas are actually pretty different, and deserve to be separated.
We think the Centro Storico is the best area to stay in Rome for first time visitors because of the central location, good selection of hotels (some of Rome’s best hotels are here), and, for lack of a better word, the vibes.
And, to be honest, the area around Piazza Navona is our favorite part of the historic center, and it’s not particularly close.
Pros of Staying in the Centro Storico
- It doesn’t get more central. You’ll be right in the heart of Rome, walking distance to pretty much anything you want to see.
- The most romantic version of Rome. Cobblestone streets. Torchlight ambiance. This is one of the more romantic places to stay in Rome.
Cons of Staying in the Centro Storico
- Where are the locals? If you’re looking for a slice of local life, this ain’t it. You’ll be surrounded by tourists, and you’re probably going to hear the majority of words spoken in languages other than Italian.
- It’s pricey. You’re going to pay for the convenience of staying in one of the most central parts of the city. If you’re able to pay for it, it’s a worthy splurge to be able to walk out your front door to the Pantheon or the Spanish Steps.
- It can be loud and boisterous. Thousands of tourists pass through each and every day. Especially near the southern end of the neighborhood, namely Campo de’ Fiori, it can be particularly loud and rowdy after dark as many of the bars cater to tourists.
One of my favorite things to do in Rome – and a staple of my 4 day Rome itinerary – is a walking tour that takes you from one end to the other.
Here’s a map of what that might look like.
In addition to some of Rome’s main attractions, there are squares and fountains tucked away within the narrow, lamp-lit streets. It’s one of the best places to wander and get a little lost.
However, generally speaking (though there are some exceptions, especially the places below), we’d recommend eating elsewhere, because there are a LOT of places with great locations serving very mediocre food at very high prices in this part of the city.
Piazza Navona: Our favorite of the main sights in this part of the city (closely followed by the Pantheon), this used to be the Stadium of Domitian, hence the oblong shape. The Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) at the northern end is a great example of Baroque architecture.
The Pantheon: A pagan temple built in the 100’s AD that now holds Raphael’s tomb, and has been turned into a church. The square outside is a perfect place to people-watch (it’s ALWAYS packed).
Campo de’ Fiori: A normal-shaped square, Campo de’ Fiori was actually built far later than other parts of this area – somewhere in the 1500’s AD. During the day, it’s home to a market (the name means flower market in Italian), but it’s rowdy and loud at night.
La Casa Del Caffè Tazza D’oro and Sant’ Eustachio Il Caffè: Two of the best coffee shops in Rome to experience the classic Italian coffee culture of standing at the bar are just a few short blocks away from each other near the Pantheon. Pro-tip: order at the register and ask for a coffee at the bar, which will be cheaper than sitting at a table and a more authentic experience (because that’s how locals do it).
Enoteca il Piccolo: Our favorite wine bar in Rome! We sat down on the patio here on a nice fall evening, and the owner sauntered up and asked us what we wanted. In broken Italian, I asked for one glass of dry white wine, and one glass of sparkling wine. Rather than give me options, he just walked away. Alysha and I were a little confused, but when he came back a few minutes later with two perfect glasses of wine, that confusion turned to delight.
Monti: Hip Neighborhood Adjacent to the Colosseum & Centro Storico
Prior to my (Matt here!) latest trip to Rome this year, we weren’t quite sure how we felt about Monti. We had spent an evening in Monti eating, drinking, and wandering the cobblestone streets and piazzas packed with people, but we didn’t have a sense for what the neighborhood is all about.
So, on this latest trip, I decided to spend my time staying in Monti to get a sense of what it would be like to use it as a home base for exploring Rome.
Turns out, it has just about everything we love in a neighborhood. It’s a great location (more on that in a second) with good transit connections (for Rome, at least) and a cornucopia of places to eat, drink, and shop in a relatively small section of the city.
We still slightly prefer Trastevere, which scores higher on places to eat, drink, and shop for us, but Monti is a somewhat more convenient location for most people, which might be a consideration for shorter trips.
Monti is a little slice of the city that forms a triangle, bordered by Piazza Venezia at the western end, the Colosseum and Forum on the southern end, and Termini Station on its northern edge. It’s hard to argue against the location – when I stayed here on this trip, I walked just about everywhere (including to Termini to catch the Leonardo Express to and from the airport).
And when something was just a little too far to walk – like the Vatican for my early morning Pristine Sistine tour with Walks of Italy – I was within walking distance of the bus or metro.
Pros and Cons of Staying in Monti
Pros of Staying in Monti
- It’s central. If you choose to stay in Monti, you’ll be well positioned between the main train station (Termini), the Centro Storico, and the Colosseum and Forum. It’s a convenient location, and it’s well connected via the metro if you need to go elsewhere.
- Restaurants and bars galore. Monti, which has made the transition from up-and-coming / hipster to flat out trendy over the past decade, is full of bars and restaurants of all kinds. In particular, look around the Chiesa di Santa Maria ai Monti along via Urbana and the surrounding area for some of the best food and drinks in Rome.
Cons of Staying in Monti
- It’s pricey. This is a sought-after district, which means there’s plenty of demand to call for higher prices. You’ll be in a hip, convenient location, so be prepared to pay for it. Probably not the best place to stay for budget travelers.
- Lots of tourists. Given its proximity to the Colosseum, Forum, and train station, there are going to be a lot of people here. Which is fine, but it’s something you should know going in.
Highlights in Monti
Here are some spots we enjoyed, and think you will too.
Blackmarket Hall: I tried to go here on my last night in Rome, but they turned me away because I didn’t have a reservation. My interest came from a tip from a local, who said this was their favorite cocktail bar in Rome.
Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli: Another tip from said local, this church – which was consecrated in the 400’s! – is in a nondescript location near the Colosseum that I had a little trouble finding because it literally doesn’t look like a church from the front. But inside, you’ll find a statue by Michaelangelo of Moses (along with others forming the tomb of Pope Julius II). Allegedly, the chains of St. Peter are also here (the name translates to “Basilica of Saint Peter in Chains”).
The view of the Colosseum: There’s a great view of the Colosseum from basically every point along Via Degli Annibaldi, which takes you from Monti to the Colosseum and Forum, but especially from the Giardinetto del Monte Oppio (here on Google Maps).
Piazza degli Zingari: A small little piazza lined with bars that was absolutely packed every single time I walked by after 6pm or so. Very fun and lively.
Fatamorgana Monti: After a thorough taste test of a bunch of (gluten free) gelato spots in Rome on this last trip, Fatamorgana is my favorite. And they have a little hole in the wall right off of Piazza degli Zingari where you can grab some gelato and stroll the liveliest part of the neighborhood.
Prati: A Quieter Alternative Near the Vatican (Good for Families)
First of all, when Alysha lived in Rome for six months, she lived in Prati. Prati is the area immediately northeast of Vatican City – which is NOT a part of Rome, it’s a separate country – which makes it a convenient home base for a trip to the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica.
However, that’s not the only thing that Prati has going for it.
It’s a more residential area, and as soon as you get a few blocks from the Vatican you’ll find yourself walking down streets lined with five story high apartment buildings.
While the main street – Cola di Rienzo – is full of stores and commercial real estate, once you get deeper into the neighborhood it gets quieter.
There are also some great places to eat and drink in Prati, from Venezuelan street food to traditional Italian trattorias. We’ll cover a few of our favorite places in the “highlights” section below.
Pros and Cons of Staying in Prati
Pros of Staying in Prati
- It’s super convenient for Vatican City. You’ll be within walking distance of the Vatican, so you’ll be able to walk to your early morning Pristine Sistine Tour with Take Walks (a company we love and recommend).
- It’s connected to Termini with the Metro. Rome’s metro doesn’t go a whole lot of places, but one place it does go is between Termini (Rome’s main station, where you’ll arrive by train from other cities or the airport) and Prati. However, you do have to connect at Termini to get to the Colosseum on the metro.
Cons of Staying in Prati
- It’s a little out of the way. Similar to Trastevere, which is on the southwestern end of the main city center of Rome, Prati is up on the northwest edge. It’s plenty close to the Centro Storico, but it’s a little bit of a journey down to the Colosseum and Termini (though Termini is connected via the Rome Metro).
- There aren’t many places to stay. Because it gets a little more residential here, there aren’t nearly as many hotel options. And the proximity to the Vatican means that the ones that do exist are going to be a little pricier than they probably should be.
Prati Highlights
Here are some places we enjoy in Prati / Vaticano. We’re not going to include the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica here, because those are obviously top things to do in this area.
Pergamino Caffè: If you’re into specialty coffee at all, this is the place to go in Rome. They have beans from various roasters in Italy, including Gardelli and Garage (two of Matt’s favorite Italian specialty coffee roasters). It’s not the cheapest coffee in Rome, and it’s a different experience compared to most other coffee bars in Rome, but if you’re looking for a special filter coffee, go here.
El Maìz: If you know us, you know that we’re suckers for a good Venezuelan-style arepa, which is essentially a sandwich between two corn cakes stuffed with meats, cheeses, plantains, and avocado (among other things). We were not expecting to find this dish in Rome, but we did, and they were amazing. Highly recommend if you’re looking for something a little different than Italian food.
Castroni: A huge specialty grocery store with primarily Italian offerings. A good place to pop into for a gift or souvenir, but definitely not your typical grocery store.
Castel Sant’Angelo: Part castle, part mausoleum for Roman emperor Hadrian, this is a cool activity in Rome. The best part is probably the view of the city from the rooftop terrace, which includes the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. The Supreme Court building next door is also worth looking at.
Pizzarium: The most famous place in Rome to get pizza al taglio, Rome’s signature type of pizza that is sliced in squares or rectangles rather than a triangle. They’ve been making amazing pizza for well over a decade, and the chef is very famous (and now is featured on Chef’s Table on Netflix). It’s super popular, and almost always busy, so be prepared for a line (and to navigate said line alongside Italians, which is an experience in its own right).
Termini / Esquilino: The Best Area For Short Trips (Plus, It’s Affordable)
Choosing a place to stay is all about evaluating the pros and cons of a neighborhood, and making a decision based on what’s important to you.
There is probably no other neighborhood in Rome that is more polarizing than the area immediately around Termini station, Rome’s main train station.
On one hand, it’s not the nicest or most romantic/charming area to explore. On the other hand, it’s about as central as it gets if you want to be connected both to the main sights in Rome via public transportation, and to any day trips or next destinations on your Italy itinerary.
In this section, we’re including the entire area around Termini, but the main area where you’re going to find the best places to stay is Esquilino, which is on the southern side of the station, adjacent to Monti.
We’d avoid the section around Via Nazionale, which is always bustling, loud, and busy, and isn’t the most pleasant place to stay. Believe us, Matt stayed here on his first trip to Rome, and we stayed a few nights at a hostel here on our last trip (which was honestly very pleasant, but not the best location).
There are a few other cool spots in San Lorenzo (which we don’t think deserves its own writeup, but is a good offbeat option with nearly zero tourists), a hip, young-feeling neighborhood on the northeastern side of Termini. We included one of them in the places to stay section below, but you should know it’s a bit further away from public transportation.
Pros and Cons of Staying in Termini / Esquilino
Pros of Staying in Termini / Esquilino:
- It’s well connected. The proximity to Termini, the main train station in Rome, means you’re well connected, both to places within Rome (most of the public transportation, including metro and buses, passes through Termini), and to other places in Italy. When you arrive and depart, you’ll be no more than a 10 minute walk away from the station.
- It’s affordable. There are a TON of places to stay within four or five blocks of Termini, which means it’s going to be just about the most affordable place to stay in Central Rome. If you’re on a budget, this is a great option, and there are tons of affordable hostels and B&Bs in the area.
Cons of Staying in Termini / Esquilino:
- It’s modern. You’ll get none of the charm here. It’s very modern, with a grid layout and tall buildings. This becomes less true as you move further away from the main entrance to Termini.
- It’s busy. As you can imagine, being near the main train station in Rome draws all sorts of people. At all hours, there are people running around trying to catch their train, or loitering and trying to sell you a cool new bracelet. Quiet is not exactly the first word we’d use to describe this area.
Termini / Esquilino Highlights
If you choose to stay here, you’re probably going to spend most of your time outside of the neighborhood. That being said, there are a few places of note within the neighborhood itself.
Grom Gelato: There’s a Grom – our favorite gelato in Rome – INSIDE Termini Station. YUM.
Mercato Centrale: After the success of their market in Florence, the same company decided to take their chances with a location in Rome at Termini. There’s a collection of stalls in a big, open food hall, with communal seating and a bunch of unique options from all over the world. Plus a coffee shop and a beer bar.
La Pasticciera: Tucked away on a side street on the north side of Termini, you’ll find the best gluten free bakery in Rome. Or at least top two. If you’re looking for gluten free cannoli, this is the spot!
San Lorenzo: This is a neighborhood on the northeastern side of the train station that is VERY hip. There’s a great selection of bars and restaurants here, from a beer bar with an unbelievable number of taps (at least for Italy, which is still working on the whole craft beer thing), to one of the best coffee shops in Rome, and just about everything in between. It’s well worth a visit, especially in the late afternoon and into the evening, when it comes alive with students from the nearby university.
Great reviews. We are heading back to Rome in June 2021, I will be retired and my wife and I want to stay for a month and enjoy the old parts and the great real Italian food. After reading your article looks like Trastevere is the place. Now deciding on hotel or vacation rental.
Any other ideas would be great.
We love Trastevere, and it would be a great place to spend a month. Monti would be another great option – it’s more central and is full of amazing food. Plus, it’s near Palatine Hill and the Colosseum / Forum, so you’ll be immersed in that “Ancient Rome” feeling.
Hi, just reading through this amazing and informative blog, thanks very much. Just wondering if you have any advice on accommodation to book for a family of 4, 2 adults. A 13 and 11 year old? Would love to bring them to Rome. I’ve been twice myself and loved it
Hi!
I cannot thank you enough for your blogs! I am a brand new Travel Advisor and I have found them INVALUABLE! I had my very first request for a trip to Europe (Paris) and thanks to your blog, not only did I learn a LOT, but it made me look like a ROCK STAR when putting together the package for my clients! I cannot thank you enough! Now I have a request for Rome and can’t wait to dig into that blog next! I feel so much more confident in booking Europe thanks to you! 🙂
No problem, glad we could be helpful!